Magna's Rust

[turbo2256b]

sounds like a PITA.
so to clarify what you just said Dave...I clean/grind off the rust totally and then put on new sheet metal over the front of it by using JB weld as a glue?

Wire brush and sand out side then coat with Rust Bullet. A foam 4' roller works well. 2 coats 2 to 4 hours appart. Buy the roller and pan at Lows or Home depot. Clean and sand the inside to bare metal. Glue the metal to the inside with JB Weld Quick dry. Hold the metal in place it takes a bout 2 to 5 minuits and you can let go. Some will run out the holes on the outside. Just sand it doun like body putty after it drys over night with 120 gritt green paper. Mix and apply Bondo ultimate bonddo over imperfections. Sand down to smooth and match body lines. Apply another coat of rust bullet. If all looks good sand smooth with 400 then 600 wet / dry paper. Minor pin holes and scraches spray on napa 2 in 1 primer. Sand all smooth again with 600. Your then ready to paint any color you want.

You might search for my thread on the body work I WAS DOING ON MY MUSTANG.

[87gtVIC]

smok'em

I'm just wondering what materials I will need to get to fix this rust myself.

I don't need to do a high quality job, but as long as I can stop the rust and paint over it, then it will be better.

here's a pic of the worst part of the rust...
*rear driver's fender*


what do I need to do?

i always like to try more burnt rubber

[Mr. Land Yacht]

Here's some pics I took tonite for reference...

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/11285/66306

[87gtVIC]

Damn!

Here's some pics I took tonite for reference...

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/...ry/11285/66306

i didn't realise the extent of the problem. the rust is attacking every panel on the car. take the advise of the guys replace where you can with metal, scrape and attack back. good luck.

[Rizzo]

This is teh first time I have evar been sad after lukin at Colin's car.

[P72Ford]

There seems to be quite a few places that are starting to break out; you need to deal with this before you have holes, mang.

I am not a fan of applying something else over rust (like an encapsulator, or some other product that claims to neutralize rust). Do you have access to a sandblaster? It doesn't have to be a big one, a small spot blaster will do. If you do, read this, if you don't, skip to the last paragraphs. I would do one spot at a time, when you can find the time to devote to getting it done right. Before you do anything, look at the rust spot you are going to work on, and see if you think the rust is going to become a hole if you sandblast it. If there will be a hole, you will either have to weld or glue panels in, which could be alot of work. This is a time when I may resort to a coating as opposed to neutralizing the rust myself. If you think it can be blasted, proceed.

Remove any of the trim around the spot that you are blasting; you have to do this, because the sand will get behind it, or damage it, and it just won;t be good. Remove the trim, and using duct tape (this is what I use, as it is durable), apply a border around the area that you are blasting. Make several layers of tape, and then use a blanket/ thick plastic to protect the rest of the surrounding area. You use the tape because it controls the area you are blasting in. You won't go outside the area, and make more work for yourself. The plastic/ blanket will protect the rest of the area from the flying sand. Make sure you tape the blanket onto you duct tape though, so sand won't fly up under the blanket.

Blast all of the rust until you have clean metal. There will be no more black/ brown residue, just clean sand finished metal. Now, everywhere that you didn't blast is thick paint, and the rest is bare metal, so you will have an edge that you need to knock down. If you don't, you'll see that edge very clearly under the paint. To knock the edge down, use various grades of paper, and feather (transition) it from the paint until the bare metal. You can tell alot about how it is going to look by feeling the edge with your fingers. Transition it nicely (it will take time), and then clean the area really well. Clean it with lacquer thinner, or some similar solvent (pre Kleano, etc). No soap and water, or anything like that. It is necessary to etch bare metal with an acid, which they will be able to sell you at any auto body supply house. Dilute the acid a little, and apply it to the bare metal areas with a brush. The area will discolor, and that is what it is supposed to do. If you do not do this step, no primer will stick. The only way to neglect this step is if you buy self etching primer, which works well too. Once the acid is done, apply nice thick coats of an epoxy based primer. Or, use the self etching EP primer if you don't do the acid thing.

There will still be pits where the rust was, but that can be fixed with spot putty and some finish work. Never leave bare metal or un primed bondo out in the rain, and it isn;t a good idea to leave primered surfaces out either. Primer is porous, and if water gets in those pores, you have to strip it all off, or you'll have moisture under your paint. It is a good idea to paint the primer as soon as it is dry, to prevent this from happening. You could use a wet on wet system (paint over wet primer), if your time allows. But, your paint has to be meant for this.

If you don't want to do finish work in the lower portion of the doors and fenders, you can apply a stone gaurd like I did (although I finished the lower panels anyway). 3M rock schutz works great, but it requires a special gun (you can get it in aerosol though too). It will hide the pits very well (as it is semi textured), and it will work well.

The thing about eliminating rust this way is that you know it is gone, not covered up, or "chemically neutralized." It can be a pain if you blow a hole, which is why I stress examining the area carefully beforehand.

If you have no blaster, and don't want to get that involved, you are basically relegated to using an encapsulator or coating. I know folks here have used them with great results, so it should be okay. I like POR15, and I have used it before, but it can get expensive. Most of those coatings say there is no prep needed, but I have seen best results when the area is brushed clean, and maybe scuffed a little. Sanding the rust will enable you to knock down the high spots, which will make finish work easier in the end.

POR15 is a very hard finish and probably is less than ideal for this, so you may want to try some of the other brands folks are recommending. It is great for coating floorpans though.

If you take your time and move from spot too spot, starting with the worst spots, you should be able to knock this out in no time. But, once you get it all done, I suggest you either stop driving it in the winter, or you start doing as I do, and employing a rust prevention method. You wouldn't have any of that rust in the doors, lower quarters, dogleg, etc if you put your drain oil to good use! And for God's sake take those fender trim pieces off; they do nothing but trap moisture; I have a spot on my car I need to do because of those damn things.

[turbo2256b]

Here is the web site for Rust Bullet. http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCar...idCategory=120

I have used Por15 and it oxidizes and requires a lot of prep to paint a color over.
I have found the rust bullet to be much easyier to work with. Be careful what you get it on once it hardens its almost impossible to remove. I have wipedd it down once dry with laquer thinner, gas, acetone ant dosent phase it any more than water would.

[1987cp]

Do you have access to a sandblaster? It doesn't have to be a big one, a small spot blaster will do.

He can use my teeny siphon blaster and 30-gallon oilfree compressor any time he likes ... but trying to get the Detroit guys to come visit somewhere outside Detroit can be another story ..... (see CVN thread with TheRedlineBoss whining about how our proposed Michigan Meet location is an hour from his house .... )

[Mr. Land Yacht]

I'm taking the coward's way out...I'l post pics when it's done.
Magna is going thru Chemo, starting today.

[Mr. Land Yacht]

I didn't say that right...it's going in FOR Chemo.

[87LongroofCP]

I agree, He needs to come to SC and get a rust free body. His car is still sweet though

[theredlineboss]

(see CVN thread with TheRedlineBoss whining about how our proposed Michigan Meet location is an hour from his house .... )

Bah! Don't use me as an example of the Detroit area guys. The problem is not the distance; the issue is that I'm cheap when it comes to fuel usage. Until my pay rate improves, it's likely to stay that way, lol. Which is not to say that I will not come...it just means that the fuel usage is a concern for me, and will factor into my final decision. [/thread jack]

Back to the topic at hand, I will agree with the others - that rust needs to be killed before they start spreading the salt. Glad to see you're taking care of it now.
I'm in for the same type of work. For me, it is the rocker panels that need attention. Gotta weld something in there before it spreads too far upwards:



-Rob

[Rizzo]

I have a di-grinder and some nice 1" brushes you can use to sand it off.

I can leave that and the compressor in the garage if you wanna stop by while I am at work.

[87DeuceVic]

Yea Colin mang, its always killed me inside to see Magna in the snow. I am parking mine for winter. Winter beater FTW!! lol

[85crownHPP]

Just do the most you can mang and enjoy the extra years you will have with magna because of it. This is a good time to go ahead and paint the lower 1/4 of the car black like you had been thinking long ago

I need to do something simmilar to my 85, seeing yours doesnt make mine seem so bad now lol...