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    #1

    Got one for yea

    Umm. one of the things that makes me go ewww with my car is where the door guard had been ripped off on one side and the glue etc is still on there + a hole...

    Heres some pics.





    Might any of you have any sujestions as to how to fix it? I woldent mind putting a new door guard on there if any one might have a link though as to where to get it ide love you long time.

    But still. How would i get the old glue off?
    People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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    #2
    I personally would take a razor and some hot water. that's what I did on babyblue.
    sigpic[LIST][*]99 Crown Vic Police Interceptor aka The Cruiser
    [*]87 Chevy 20 Van 350TBI
    [*]94 Mercury Grand Marquis aka Babyblue RIP
    [*]83 Chrysler New Yorker 5th Ave 318 V8

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      #3
      I have had great results removing that stubborn adhesive with paint polish. It helps to have an actual buffer, but a little bit of elbow grease and a nice soft towel will work. I prefer to use Meguiar's #3, but I'm sure any quality car polish (Mother's, 3M, etc) will work. Apply some to your soft towel, or buffing wheel, and go to work (you'll have to polish the whole car so it doesn't look out of place). If you're using a towel, and not a machine to buff it, it will take some time. Be patient though, and it'll come out nice.

      The razor blade and hot water may work, but you could really scratch the paint if you slipped. I wouldn't recommend lacquer thinner or any other paint cleners, etc, as it may damage the paint.

      As far as side moldings; you can use the ones from newer cars (the fleet trim has nice rounded ends) and that may be a reasonable replacement. Thats just a thought though. I personally like the look of no side trim at all.
      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
      **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
      **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
      **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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        #4
        A pressure washer with a 0* nozzle worked wonders for me. You have to be very careful, though.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
          I have had great results removing that stubborn adhesive with paint polish. It helps to have an actual buffer, but a little bit of elbow grease and a nice soft towel will work. I prefer to use Meguiar's #3, but I'm sure any quality car polish (Mother's, 3M, etc) will work. Apply some to your soft towel, or buffing wheel, and go to work (you'll have to polish the whole car so it doesn't look out of place). If you're using a towel, and not a machine to buff it, it will take some time. Be patient though, and it'll come out nice.

          The razor blade and hot water may work, but you could really scratch the paint if you slipped. I wouldn't recommend lacquer thinner or any other paint cleners, etc, as it may damage the paint.

          As far as side moldings; you can use the ones from newer cars (the fleet trim has nice rounded ends) and that may be a reasonable replacement. Thats just a thought though. I personally like the look of no side trim at all.
          Thanks mang

          I like the look of no side trim either. tell me how i can fix that hole and there wont be any/
          And could you just use touch up paint where it was before? then polish it some more?
          People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

          Comment

            #6
            Does the hole go through? If not, you should be able to prep the area and use a little putty. If you repaint the area, it'll be hard to blend it in. You'll have to wet sand, and you'd probably end up wanting to paint both doors (and then the whole car; the doors will look out of place). However, you can tape it off, and then carefully wetsand the area in with really fine paper (1200-1500 grit, possibly 2000). You have to buff it out after though. Blending can be a pain in the ass, and I haven't had good results.
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

            Comment

              #7
              As in can i put my finger tru it? Aye I can hehe./
              People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

              Comment

                #8
                Some good things to try ar 3m General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, Kleen-Strip Aircraft Decal & Adhesive Remover, 3m Woodgrain and Stripe Remover, Varsol, or those vinyl stripping removal wheels.
                sigpic
                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by darkknight View Post
                  As in can i put my finger tru it? Aye I can hehe./

                  I vote for no door guard trim, it makes the whole car and it's lines flow much better in my opinion.

                  As for the Rust Hole in the door, I would get rid of all the rust, and then go ahead and tack weld that hole closed, then using a Grinder and Body Filler to smooth it out. If you don't have access to a welder, or don't know how to weld sheet metal yourself/know someone to do it for you. You may be able to get away with just grinding out all the rust, and then filling the Hole from behind with Epoxy Putty, then using Glazing Putty on the exterior to smooth it out, and then of course blending in new paint.

                  It would be a temporary repair, which would be suitable for the current paintjob. I wouldn't trust that kind of a repair going under a new paintjob though.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I have that same shit DK, it makes my car look ghetto as hell, moms pull their kids close when I drive by.
                    Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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