Tiggie, why does yer car leak through the HVAC intake screen? Mine used to do that too, until I sealed around the vent screen's bottom edge with silicone glue or whatever it is that is used to hold fish tanks together.
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Originally posted by Tiggie View PostCould leak on both sides like my wagon. The drivers side leaks somewhere up above the gas pedal under the insulation and stuff. Dunno where exactly it is coming in. (Suggestions welcome). The passenger side comes in through the fresh air vent screen thing on top of the firewall. Judging by the 10X8in hole in the drivers floor, it has leaked since new.Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostTiggie, why does yer car leak through the HVAC intake screen? Mine used to do that too, until I sealed around the vent screen's bottom edge with silicone glue or whatever it is that is used to hold fish tanks together.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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The nuts holding my HVAC screen on are stripped for some reason, so I can't get it off to seal around it. I'll pick up another HVAC screen and maybe I can force mine off and not worry about breaking it.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
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Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
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Could use that butyl rubber stuff, the stuff they usually use for glass installations. I've used it for my door barriers, tail lights, and making gaskets for screws. Works fairly well but can be messy.sigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.
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Originally posted by P72Ford View PostYour best friend is clear silicone. I have also shrink wrapped my air inlet partially. There is an opening on the front side (for air to enter) so that any old water can't run right into the inlet.
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Originally posted by Tiggie View PostThe nuts holding my HVAC screen on are stripped for some reason, so I can't get it off to seal around it. I'll pick up another HVAC screen and maybe I can force mine off and not worry about breaking it.
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Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostYep, clear silicone is what I used - everywhere around the inlet screen, for the same reasons as you, it was real badly warped. Can you snap a pic or two of hoe you heat-shrunk the screen?
1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car
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I'm another one with the inlet screen covered in silicone. I think it helps a lot.sigpic
1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.
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Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View PostI'm another one with the inlet screen covered in silicone. I think it helps a lot.
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Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View PostYep, clear silicone is what I used - everywhere around the inlet screen, for the same reasons as you, it was real badly warped. Can you snap a pic or two of hoe you heat-shrunk the screen?
With it bagged up (leave the bottom open), get to a source of heat. I used the stove range at my house. It is elecetric, so no open flame. (You can probably use a gas range if you're careful, or maybe even a hair dryer.) Just hold it over the heat and as it heats up the plastic will shrink. It pulls tight over the inlet and makes a rather nice cover. It takes a while to get perfect with the heat. You have to move from one area to another. I usethe clear tape because it melts and becomes integral to the cover. If you use a bag (and its multi color), you can paint it so it doesn't look totally goofy.
If this doesn't help I'll make myself a new one and snap pics of the process.
Don't forget to cut a whole in the front for air to come in too!**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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Ah, got the idea, well we have some heat guns at work so that's what I'm gonna use. However, what exactly did that wrap for you, does it restrict water spills in the inlet, or what? Cause when I tested my inlet drain system it worked well, there was no water in the cab and all water I poured in it drained out like it's supposed to...
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I thought my water drain worked right too. Most of the water runs out on the ground. However, if I wait a while after I have poured water in, I can see some water inside the car on the firewall running down (after the carpet is pulled back, etc). I think the shrink wrapping may have prevented an excessive amount of water from running in. Less water in the inlet means less chance of it running in the car (down the firewall, etc), for me at least.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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