Removing Window motor?

[85crownHPP]

yes - you can get the motor out by only drilling 3 holes (not rivets) and then removing 3 bolts (not rivets)

You CAN take out the whole regulator if you want though but you have to drill all those rivets.

Some never panthers are that way too... I took a motor out of a 94 towncar without removing the regulator and I want to say i did a newer crown vic too.
Ive done a lot of windows lately.... in land rovers, lexus', tempos, one in a durango, jeep grand cherokees... lots of em.
Suprizingly, the cheapest/easierst to replace was the land rover. $105 for the regulator and it would have slipped right out if the old one wasnt bent up. 10mm bolts too, no rivets.
most expensive/hardest was the Lexus... $560 for regulator/motor (was not a lexus that has a toyota sibling) and it was a PITA...
Now at work whenever a bum window comes in they give it right to me lol.

[85MercPark]

Now you tell me

[FastGallopingPonies]

Yeah I did what Pete and Gadget are saying no problems. I used a 1/2 inch bit as well since I also don't have any hole saws that small. But 3 bolts and it was out. Easy.

[LTDMan83]

Glad I could help! I would definatly hit up the yards for more window motors,they are like $50-60 new!I got lucky with my Vic,all the motors were still in good shape,so I just had to rebuild them.At the yards if you have a 12V battery pack with you,you can pull the motors out and test them right on the spot,so you can make sure your not buying a bad one.

[gadget73]

I've had better luck with rebuilt OEM motors than with new cheapie motors. Used 2 cheapie motors for gear assembly donors to original Ford parts. Motors work fine now.

[FastGallopingPonies]

I'm just glad I got the passenger to work again the rear window has been like that since I've owned it and goes up and down by hand. bad thing though since anyone that knows me could break into my car easily. Hopefully gonna get to the yard next week and snag a couple. I need a few other things as well.

[Fst Mrc]

hey guys...I'm going through the same thing. thanks for all the help! btw, I can hear the motors working on all 4 doors, but now window mvmt??? that means that the motors are good and I just have to replace the gear, right??? I have to use my hand to assist. might as well get some samples from jcwhitney for the tracks and everything while I'm at it.

[gadget73]

hey guys...I'm going through the same thing. thanks for all the help! btw, I can hear the motors working on all 4 doors, but now window mvmt??? that means that the motors are good and I just have to replace the gear, right??? I have to use my hand to assist. might as well get some samples from jcwhitney for the tracks and everything while I'm at it.

The motors run and you hear a clunk-clunk-clunk? Yeah, the bushings in the window motor are shot. Cheap fix. Replace them and lube up the whole mechanism with some spray-on white grease or something and it'll work fine.

[nobies25]

I was having the same problem getting the motor out to till I found this. I love this place so much already. Thanks.

[LtMercDaddy]

OK I searched WHOOOHOOOO....

But I still have Questangs!

Can the motor be removed from the regulator by drilling the 3 dimples and removing the 3 little bolts from the motor/regulator with the window "COMPLETELY DOWN"?

the reason I ask is because my window died tonight with the window down and I can drill out the spots and pull teh bolts tomorrow before work so i can have a manual operation window (temporaily)

the motor took a shit in the passenger window about a year ago and I took out the (4) rivits holding the regulator to the door frame and it was a major (PITA) to get all lined back up and all.

(imma take some pics of this shit, this is a common problem ive seen, and there isnt really alot of documentation on here about it)

[LtMercDaddy]

Well DUE to this thread being an ARCHIVE didnt get a response as I had origionally thought. Although all went well this morning. drilled the 3 dimples in the bottom of the door and removed the 3 5/16" brass looking bolts that hold the window motor to the regulator. a couple love taps on the regulator and off came the motor. this was all done with the window completely down. I had a thought that with the window being all the way down that the bolts holding the motor to the regulator would be blocked by eather the glass or the regulator this wasnt the case. After the motor was seperated from the regulator had to remove the speaker from the door and took the motor out that way.

[LtMercDaddy]

I got some pictures from the disassembly today. visual proof that the dimples are to be drilled, not the rivits.

I'm not the most experienced with electronics, but i do know the basics. besides from some moderate rusting as you can see the inside wasnt all that bad, the brushes look like they have some wear on them, but still looks like some is left. At this moment I dont have anything to compare them too, but they still look useable. There is some light surface rust on the wire magnet and the contact points inside the housing, I'm going to clean them up with some emory paper.

as for the mechanical part of the motor, I cleaned all that grayish grease out, BTW is that just moly/lithium grease, or is it for electronics aswell? under the gear that turns the regulator there where some crushed little plastic pieces? where can I get new ones? and what are they called?

I dont know if im going to re-build these or just buy new ones, thing doesnt look half bad for a 20yr factory ford part.

the 18v cordless drill and myself might be going to the yard for some donors, now if I could only get a 12v testing source in without it being in the form of a 25lb jump starter pack.

anyways.... PICS

[86VickyLX]

In my opinion it's way easier to drill out the rivets an take the regulator out with the motor, and just put it back in.

[1987cp]

Glad I found this thread, because I have a couple window motors giving me grief, as well as two or three broken regulators. So now for my dumb questions:

1) When a motor "binds", where does it bind? I haven't seen the gears part of mine because all I've done is remove the two long bolts and pull out the shaft-and-magnet-and-brushes assembly. Perhaps not surprisingly, lubing the shaft up and reinstalling has proven to be less than a permanent fix.

2) Is the plastic gearey thing in MercDaddy's fourth picture the thing that breaks when the regulator breaks? If so, is that thing easy to obtain from parts houses?

3) If it's not the plastic gearey thing that breaks, and it's not like the LTD's p/s front door where the plastic bracket riveted to the window broke, what exactly is it that does break?

Thanks, everyone!

-----------------------------
ps. Did I mention that I'm a surpreme ignoramus when it comes to body work?

[85MercPark]

Not sure where a bind would happen.

In the fourth picture there is a triangular piece.
There are three round plastic rollers that go in the spaces. Those wear out and need to be replaced. That was what happened to mine.

I did the rivets on mine and had very little problem getting it back together.

Are front VS rear any different?