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2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
see what i started?, keep at it mangs, everyone needs some music to cruise to, and multiple speakers can work, just do like chevy said and match your ohms and make sure not to overload the headunit
jay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......
My JVC deck at random decides it does not want to play CDs or eject them. Sometimes when it does this it will play the disc, and then the track gets garbled. If you try advancing a track, it doesn't play it. Only AM/FM work without issues. The only fix, that I know of, is to disconnect the battery, and reconnect it. A coworker at work had the same issue, and doing what I did with the battery solved it. She has a JVC deck as well. It doesn't do it in any particular temperature. It did it to me in the Rodeo twice over the summer, and it did it the other day in the Vic when it was 25 degrees in the morning.
My JVC mp3 player does something like that once in a while, but its a heat issue. Play it loud for an hour or so, the display goes funky, then it starts skipping and shit. I have a plastic slot cover missing under the radio for extra ventillation and if I stick my hand in there and touch the radio its scorching hot. Let it cool down and its just fine. Never gets hot on tuner mode. The Kenwood in the Townie does it to once in a great while, but takes longer for it to happen.
I should have gotten pics of the fuse holder I took out of my car. It was one of those shitty ones in the Wal Fart install kit. It melted. Wiring is ok, but not the best quality.
Since we're on the topic here, I'd like to replace my sub box in the trunk. Right now I have a pair of 12" Pioneers in a bandpass box driven by a 600 watt Kenwood amp. Speakers are some years old, at least 5-6, and they're those diamond plate looking cone ones. The bass is kinda muddy and boomy, typical of a bandpass. I'd like something a bit tighter and cleaner, but at the same time I want some of my trunk back. Any suggestions on a particular style of box that will do this, or am I just looking at a regular old sealed box that fits where I need it to fit?
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
either a sealed or ported box will work, sealed will be quieter and more crisp punch, ported will be loud and slightly muddy, another option is a slot port,
louder than sealed but cleaner sound then regular port
jay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......
I guess thats a bandpass, right? I don't know jack about speaker box design. You can kinda see the speakers in there. They're mounted at a diagonal under that piece of plexi. The magnets are visible through the slots on the end of the box.
Unrelated, but I wish I had the trunk that cleared out now. Its not too bad but I've accumulated garbage recently that needs a new home.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
lol, think your box takes up room?, look at m rides page, my box fills the entire low floor section of the trunk, and is triangle ish kinda sorta shaped, talk about room or lack of, i had a nice big cube, but this thing didnt fit in the girls new car, so she took the cube and ive got the huge mirrored mammoth
jay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......
The more ohm load, the more power is needed to drive the speakers. It will work, but it will damage you radio over time, and shorten its life.
Running any amp at higher impediences than its rated for will not hurt the amp itself. Its actually easier on the amp. Wire your door and dash speakers in series for an 8 ohm load, assuming your using 4 ohm speakers. Power output will be cut in half but having 2 drivers will make up for lost power, the difference between 10 and 20 watts is almost nothing. Just don't clip the signal, thats what will kill your speakers or amp.
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