how does the stock sound system rate?

[zoomie]

You'll need about 1 cubic foot of space for a 10" speaker in a sealed box IIRC.





actually 1 cubic foot is too much for a 10 inch sub about half of that and you will be much happier, also half inch mdf,plywood, particle board will tend to distort or actually blow apart if its in a sealed enclosure

[Piece-it pete]

Gadget, the woof boxes were big, commercial bass horn units (actually from the old Cleveland Colosseum) with 2 15s. Really midbass units, probably running down to about 70-75 hz. Horns from the same place, single drive dual cell about 3-4 feet long, probably good to about 11-12K. So it was really a very good start to a 4 way system. The drums were scary good particularly, the horn drivers could've been better but still amazing.

I know there's differences between SET and Triode etc but that's above my pay grade

They were home built. Beautifully done.

[/threadjack ]

Pete

[sly]

You'll need about 1 cubic foot of space for a 10" speaker in a sealed box IIRC.





actually 1 cubic foot is too much for a 10 inch sub about half of that and you will be much happier, also half inch mdf,plywood, particle board will tend to distort or actually blow apart if its in a sealed enclosure

then I guess the scoche boxes I got should be in shreds by now with me playing Techmaster P.E.B. and The Prodigy through them all the time. They're half inch mdf that I sealed... not ported... and I have some pioneer 10" filling them. They're also 1 cubic foot of space inside. The spec sheet for the pioneer speaker also says to use one cubic foot for a sealed box.

I've attached the recommended box section from the spec sheet for that speaker. The TS-W252R is the 10 inch sub... the other is for a 12 inch.

[85crownHPP]

The Prodigy

[BerniniCaCO3]

Hrmm, I'll use the 3/4" particle board with melamine coating that I already have some scrap bits of, then It's --mostly-- sealed against moisture, and if it'll take an obsessed audiophile to tell it from mdf, I'm probably good.

I'm finally installing everything today. Don't even ask me how long it took to finally thread the main power cable through the firewall, for the amp. Ended up going with massive 2gauge THHN cable because it was less flexible, and therefore actually easier to force through an existing electrical cable hole than the --overpriced-- stuff at best buy.

Anyway!
One thing that confused me: apparently the neutral on the car battery is connected to the chassis, so the entire car can act as my neutral? In home wiring, there are separate neutrals and grounds, which is more what I'm used to... although there's an older type of 220V plug that has no ground :-(

So where I'm going... is it easiest to just hook the ground from the amplifier, to the nearest heavy part of the chassis? Or since copper is a much better conductor than steel is, WOULDN'T it be better to run a second cord all the way back to the neutral on the battery...?

[gadget73]

Yes, the body of the car is grounded. There is no neutral in a DC system, just positive and negative.

You'll get answers both ways about this. The easy and common way to do it is to ground things to a convenient point on the body. Everything else in the car is wired that way, however if you've got the wire, it won't hurt to run a ground from the battery. You can cheat and run that in smaller gauge if you connect the - on the amp to the body and to the cable going to the battery though.

[grandpaslincoln]

If it were me I'd go plywood. But that's because my sub box got ruined because a jug of antifreeze in the trunk split and soaked it.