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Sub boxes (need pics)

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    #16
    sealed

    sealed boxes make good punchy bass, like the kickdrum makes. Metal wont have much lower than that, unless its industrial maybe. A good sealed box will go lower just as well to, everyone at Scotfesst can witness to that, if they were there for the Crystal Method light show.
    My experience with ported and bandpass boxes is that they are great for certain frequencies and lack on others. And if the box isnt tuned for the sub, forgetaboutit.
    I hear the snail shell slot box design is supposed to be miraclulous though.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #17
      cool, thanks for clarifying that pete
      Save a seal, club a liberal.

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        #18
        Mine are slotted and tuned to the sub and i will say they are the best ive ever heard. Takes a lot of math to get the box tuned right but it is well worth it. My sealed boxes never hit this hard. These are so much more efficient its not even funny. I guess mine would be the snailshell design. The insides are like this.
        1989 Grand Marquis LS
        flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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          #19
          Woops, some how I missed this thread.

          I don't use subs, but I do have an amp. Here is a pics of where it is at.

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            #20
            i run two 12" subs in a sealed box, bridged to a 2 channel amp, the bass is incredible

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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              #21
              Pair of 12s in a bandpass, but I'm not super happy with it. Bass isn't as clean as I would like it to be. The amp is jammed between the trunk hinge and the spare. I think I'm gonna relocate the spare over towards the hinge on the other side, then mount the amp to a board or something along with the cap and wire it nicely. It looks like ass right now.


              BTW, a 3 farad cap is overkill, way too f'n expensive, and not that useful for what you're doing. For your money, I'd go with a 3ag 130 amp alternator and maybe a 1/2 to 1 farad cap. I got my 1 farad for under $40 from an electronics supply place. Its nothing fancy, just a basic Mallory 20v 1 farad but it functions the same as a fancy brand that costs a hell of a lot more. Even with the cap, the voltage would dip enough for me to see the dash lights flicker at stop lights. With the new alternator it never drops under 14v, so all is well.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #22
                Im definitely going to go 3 g alternator. But i can get a Power Acoustic 3 farad cap for like 70 bux brand new. I dont need it now that i undbridged the amp. But i will need more juice soon.
                1989 Grand Marquis LS
                flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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                  #23
                  3 words - Imperial Folded Horn - that design PWNS all other box designs. But unless you are listening to stuff that is heavy with a Roland 808 go with a sealed box. I have 2 sealed boxes with Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2 12's on synth bass heavy music such as DnB or Florida breaks it seems a little weak (nothing that the controls on the crossover in the console cant take care of), but on stuff like Mushroomhead it hits tight.
                  http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                  http://secondhandradio.com/

                  R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                  http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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