Use 12 or 14 ga wire if possible, but 16 works, Try and keep the wires away from power wiring, but honestly with DC electricals, you're not going to pick up enough noise at a speaker level to hear. If you are running pre-amp cables to an amp, keeping those away from power wiring is more important since the amplifier will (imagine this) amplify any noise the low level input cables bring in. The speakers quite frankly are not sensitive enough to pick up static off a power line and make it audible.
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86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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ok I have run 14 gauge wire for the drivers side front door to the trunk, and I used the stock passage inbetween the dash and the door for the wires and somehow I got it through the rubber boot thing too. Next I'm going to run the RCA cables in a similar fashion on the drivers side, then the power to the battery and the passenger speaker wire on the right side of the car. Any big things I have to worry about with the power cable besides keeping it away from the RCA preamp cables?, where is a good place to go through the firewall on the pass. side also? thanks for the help yall1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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i'm looking to sell my entire sound system.. i have an alpine 9856 head unit with mp3 playback and quick-find capability, kicker 4" and kicker 6x9's powered well off of the head unit, and a punch 500 watt amplifier powering two state one rockford punch subwoofers.. it sounds great. i'm looking for $600 out of it, and it's only been used for a couple of months.. you'd have almost twice that in trying to buy it new. make an offer
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Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcarwhere is a good place to go through the firewall on the pass. side also? thanks for the help yall
Also... 16 gauge wire is fine!!!!! for normal interior speakers.
Most speakers come with size 18 guage wire, if thats what they come with its got to be ok. Its what I used and mine sounds good at levels lound enough to give you a headache. 12gauge wire is HUGE!!!! you run several hundred watt subs with 12gauge wire. not 60watt rms interior speakers.
* attached is a pic of 12gauge wireLast edited by 85crownHPP; 01-10-2007, 03:25 AM.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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i have my sedan, Baby, wired with speakers in the dash, rear dash and subs. i ran all the speaker wiring thru the car first to see where i could have access. i removed the passenger and rear seat so i could run the speaker wires and RCAs to the back. for the power line to the amp, i pulled the carpet back on the passenger side and pulled the grommet loose from the firewall. carefully i cut a small section from it to fit a power line for the amp. i then ran a coat hanger with a small hook into the engine compartment. it comes out under the blower. i ran the line from the battery thru the grommet and under the door trim in a channel that was there. remember to have an extra wire to work as a remote wire for the amp so that the amp turns on when the stereo is on. you have to keep the RCAs away from the power cable to the amp to keep from having interference and static. its a pain but it can be done.
my tudor has more wiring due to having to run the speaker lines and lines to light them up. i have those in the door and the rear dash. i have those tied to switches in the dash by the shifter. the switches light up when the speaker lights are on. i have had people say that it looked damn good, but that was before the motor went. i am liking the way they lit the car up. those speakers were illuminites sold at wal-mart. (i work there and have a discount and wanted something different) they sound great off the stereo in that tudor.
when you have your subs in, you might wanna run another amp to the rear speakers. if not than i found it works best to have the bass turned all the way down to your other speakers and have your subs handle the bass. i have had compliments from guys that all they haere is bass but can actually here everything in my cars.
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I got the whole system wired up about a month ago and it sounds awesome. The sony 600watt 4channel amp I got is really nice [came from walmart for 100bux] and i have 4 sony speakers and 14 speaker wire. No interference or anything so I must have done something right.1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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