Cheap Chinese headlamp relay harness install

[gadget73]

I mentioned elsewhere that I was purchasing a cheap quad headlamp relay harness to try out on my Continental. Its the same quad lamp arrangement most boxes use, or anything else with four sealed beam lamps. The one I bought is this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-H4-Headlight-4-Headlamp-Light-Bulbs-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Socket-Plug-Kit/112128277156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm sure this same kit can be bought from other sellers, it seems to be all over ebay. Shipping takes a bit, but its free. Order was 9/28, it showed up in NJ on 10/27, so essentially a full month to arrive.

Pulling it out of the envelope it looks like it does on the auction. Wires, relays, sockets. Initial impressions are that its not terribly made but its not exactly a high end exotic part either. Some detail pics of the assorted connectors and such below.



Fuse is one of those cheap ones like you find at Harbor Freight. I'd suggest replacing it with a proper brand one. A bit of silicone grease in the terminals wouldn't hurt either.



rear view of the relay sockets. One thing I'm not sure I like is that power for the low beams routes through the normally closed contact on the high beam relay, meaning that if the high beam relay burns that contact out, you've got no low beams. I may change this at some point but likely I'll give it some run time first to see if it holds up.



The relays. These appear to be decently sealed and constructed. Its a standard Bosch-style relay socket and pinout though, so replacements are easy to get.



Views of the sockets. Its un-glazed ceramic, probably wouldn't be too hard to damage if you poke at it but it doesn't seem too fragile to use. Again, I suggest silicone grease in these terminals to help weatherproof it.




Some very confidence-inspiring words of wisdom

[gadget73]

Upon installation I found an issue. This is officially for an H4 lamp, which in my own oversight is not wired identically to a sealed beam. Not a big deal, the blue and black wires need to be reversed at the male plug and the two female plugs for the low/high headlamps.

The male plug is easy. A light squeeze with needle nose pliers at the locking tab will release the wires. Bend the latch back out prior to re-assembly.





The female plug is also not too hard, but care must be taken to not damage the ceramic. Simply slide a suitable pokey tool into the socket on the side of the contact, gently push the latch in, and pull the wire out of the back.



I didn't get any pics of it installed, but you really can't see much of anything. The wires are zip tied to an existing harness that runs across the header panel. Grounds are connected to convenient pre-existing grounds on either end of the rad support, + is straight to the battery. I get a little more than 2v improvement at the lights which should help. I haven't driven it at night to verify but I can't imagine its worse.

Unrelated, the headlamp warning light came on once both headlights were not connected to the circuit. Apparently some of my voltage loss was excessive resistance in the lamp monitor circuit.

So there you have it. Reverse 2 wires in the connectors and the cheap harness functions. How it will stand up to DD use I don't know but nothing about makes me think its going to fail immediately. If it does, the stock wiring can be re-connected without too much fuss, though it would require I pull the headlamps out to access the plugs. I think you might be able to sneak your hand in behind the lamps on a Vic to do this if something died, but even so I can restore stock headlamp circuits in a few minutes on the side of the road with a phillips screwdriver if I had to.

[87gtVIC]

Cool. I may look into this for dads mustang. He already converted to H4 style so its even more easy of a decision to make.

I like the idea of a simple plug and play system that reverts back to normal should things fail.


So your headlamp warning indicator remains on all the time now correct?

Also, which headlamp plug did you utilize from the stock harness to feed the relay harness?

[gadget73]

Its not on anymore, I removed the bulb from it.

I used the driver's side low beam. The harness was set up such that the male plug was fairly near to the battery connections, so mostly its a case of thats where it fits. On a Panther I'd use the passenger side low beam for the same reason.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I got a similar one of those harnesses in the ‘87. Had similar Engrish on it.

I’m running E-code headlights so I had to change the vehicle side to H4 setup so it would work correctly, otherwise highs were on when the low beams were active and vice versa.

I’ve got no complains with mine, but I do need to make a cleaner ground setup versus the little ring terminals they give you. It just looks a bit messy, but functionally it’s great.

[gadget73]

yeah I realized I had traded the wires around not quite correctly. Fix was to reverse the blue and the white. I'll get a pic of what it should look like next time I'm in the garage.

Quick test in the empty parking lot next door gives me brighter, whiter light. Not a bad thing.

[87gtVIC]

Cool. Think I will get one for pops. He does most of his driving in the wee hours of the morning so extra output is not a bad thing.

[gadget73]

yeah, light output vs voltage is a pretty steep curve. This is what a 9004 lamp looks like, but all incandescent have a similar curve. Data from danielsternlighting.com


10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens

Most cars charge in the 13.5-14.5v range, so call it 14v. If you're losing 2v so the lamps run at 12.0v, thats basically a 40% reduction in light output. Of course lamp life follows an inverse curve, the less voltage you give it the longer it lasts. I'd rather replace headlamps every few years than plow into a deer I didn't see though.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

If there’s not a problem piggybacking on this thread: A nice thing you could pair with that harness are a pair of E-Code Headlamps. They’re not terrible for the price point and cheaper than the Hellas. They use a standard H4 bulbs. Light pattern is better than a stock sealed beam (brighter to boot), but retains a sealed beam “look” with the fluted lens.

Definitely feel more confident in night driving. If I had to make a recommendation of a decent quality sealed beam lamp if one didn’t want to upgrade to an H4 housing, I found the GE Nighthawk line to be of good quality.

Realistically though, regardless what light you run, that harness you listed works wonders.

[86VickyLX]

I have the same headlight harness on Vicky. I removed the questionable splices with more safe, weather proof ones, I also incorporated the harness into the underhood fuse box that I added. The gauge of the wire is a lot smaller than the insulation lets on, but I do have much brighter lights and I haven't seen any signs of melting yet haha.

[87gtVIC]

Sweet. Pretty positive reviews. One is one the way. Dad and I will hopefully install it into his car one day. I have a 3g alt upgrade kit for him as well. Merry Christmas....

[gadget73]

I really dislike the light pattern of E-code lamps. I'm perhaps the only person on the planet that actually likes the light pattern of boring old DOT sealed beams.

The Conti is running a pedestrian set of GE halogens that were in it when I got it. Towncar runs Sylvania XV. I think the truck is running basic Wagners. I had a set of Silverstars on the truck but they turned into a fish bowl and died within a year. So much for the "sealed" part.

The gauge of the wire is a lot smaller than the insulation lets on, but I do have much brighter lights and I haven't seen any signs of melting yet haha.

yeah I noticed the insulation is very fat. I was thinking the actual wire gauge might be 16awg. Its probably not thinner than the OE wiring, and its certainly a lot shorter of a path.

[86VickyLX]

I really dislike the light pattern of E-code lamps. I'm perhaps the only person on the planet that actually likes the light pattern of boring old DOT sealed beams.

The Conti is running a pedestrian set of GE halogens that were in it when I got it. Towncar runs Sylvania XV. I think the truck is running basic Wagners. I had a set of Silverstars on the truck but they turned into a fish bowl and died within a year. So much for the "sealed" part.



yeah I noticed the insulation is very fat. I was thinking the actual wire gauge might be 16awg. Its probably not thinner than the OE wiring, and its certainly a lot shorter of a path.

I'm debating on ordering another one for the coupe when I get everything in order.

[87gtVIC]

Sweet. Pretty positive reviews. One is one the way. Dad and I will hopefully install it into his car one day. I have a 3g alt upgrade kit for him as well. Merry Christmas....

Got it today. Just like your.s Thain..already insured. lol

Got lucky with the shipping I guess as it came in 14 days.

[gadget73]

must have gotten the fast boat out of China.

Still hasn't died. I was out the other night with it and I'm still impressed at how much better the headlights are. Between full voltage and proper aim they really do a good job.