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84 colony park, ignition switch rivets?

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    84 colony park, ignition switch rivets?

    Hi everyone, quick question: i need to replace my ignition switch...1984 colony park wagon, looks like it's riveted onto the steering column is that right? If i drill them out, i have to rivet it back on? Is there another solution? Thanks!
    1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - 393 Dart block LS 91mm turbo with 4L80E and 9" 6.24@115 in the 1/8 mile (9's in the 1/4), 4650lbs w driver, AC, Drag n Drive rig 1300hp

    1988 Lincoln Town Car - stock for now

    #2
    I thought they were Torx screws, but I’m not sure about the earlier models.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1979 Ford LTD Landau (38K Miles) - New Cruiser

    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (343K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (244K Miles) - March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner - Sold (05/2011 - 07/2024)

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      #3
      They should be T30 and may be "secure" T30 (with the pin in the middle so you need the bit with the hole in the middle). Maybe a T20 or T25. They should also be some obscure fine thread bolt. Don't lose them.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        They aren't security Torx, but I've seen junkyard cars that had security Torx which I believe are replacements that come with some new switches. The factory ones are special security screws with a head that kind of resembles a rounded off hex head, but super tiny. The best way to turn them out is with vice grips grabbing the outer edge. Do not try to engage with the nub in the middle, it won't turn by that.

        Some of the new ignition switches include new screws, some do not. It's a pretty normal machine thread, can't think of what it is off the top of my head, but I had spare bolts in my box of random hardware that fit when I've had to do it before.

        Current driver: the 91s
        Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
        | 88 TC | 91 GM
        Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 92 Jaaag | 05 Focus
        Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
        | Junkyards

        Comment


          #5
          yeah, that sonsabitchin thing. If you have a set of sockets meant for removing stripped bolts, those work well. A Dremel to cut a slot is also an option. I did this just a few weeks ago on my 84, and my 86 Towncar had them too.

          Last switch I installed did not come with screws, but the parts store had license plate screws that were a large phillips head in the proper thread. Its an M6 I think, nothing strange. Hex head would probably also work fine.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Dang it, i should've waited another hour for more replys, i drilled 'em like rivets. Now I've gotta drill and tap for new screws. What an asinine design. For what its worth, i tried to grab 'em with vice grips but no luck...should grabbed the outside ring. Oh well.
            1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - 393 Dart block LS 91mm turbo with 4L80E and 9" 6.24@115 in the 1/8 mile (9's in the 1/4), 4650lbs w driver, AC, Drag n Drive rig 1300hp

            1988 Lincoln Town Car - stock for now

            Comment


              #7
              Its a great design for assembly purposes, but a shit one for service. Assembly you just run it in and it snaps the driver off when it gets to whatever design torque is. It usually lasts out of warranty, so who cares if its annoying to replace 30 years later.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Ha, very true. plus I found out mine is still working perfectly 34 years after assembly!
                1984 Mercury Colony Park Wagon - 393 Dart block LS 91mm turbo with 4L80E and 9" 6.24@115 in the 1/8 mile (9's in the 1/4), 4650lbs w driver, AC, Drag n Drive rig 1300hp

                1988 Lincoln Town Car - stock for now

                Comment

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