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    #1

    Chasing electrical drain?

    Greetings,
    So I'm looking to fix an electrical drain/short that's been killing my battery recently. Here's the clues I have...
    Every few days of not running the car, the battery goes dead. It happens sporadically. I havent figured out exactly how much time it takes to kill the battery I have recently replaced the alternator, starter solenoid, ignition switch, and positive battery cable. Another clue that might help in solving the mystery is I have noticed that when connecting the cables to the battery terminal there's a spark when you first put the positive cable on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    @Ryan.Madison68
    Tags: None
    #2
    The spark is typical. How has battery been tested?
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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      #3
      It's a newer battery. I purchased it a few months back, so there shouldn't be any dead cells. I cant remember exactly what Autozone say it's charging at.
      @Ryan.Madison68

      Comment

        #4
        Use a multimeter to check amps with one lead to the battery ground and one to the disconnected ground cable.

        Give it a few minutes to settle and take a reading. Should be if it’s more than 100mA, start pulling fuses to isolate the circuit and report back what you find.
        1990 Country Squire - under restoration
        1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

        GMN Box Panther History
        Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
        Box Panther Production Numbers

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          #5
          If using the multimeter to check for parasitic drain make sure the positive lead is connected to the fused connector on the meter.

          Also when disconnecting and reconnecting a battery make sure to disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect the negative last.

          In the old days pre computers you could test for a drain with a 12 volt test light.
          2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

          Comment

            #6
            Everything they say is valid. I would do this 1st as a precaution. After the car has been driven on a good long run, a couple of hours, read the voltage across the terminals with engine on should be about 14.3V. Turn car off and turn on headlights for 1 minute. Turn off headlights. Wait 2 minutes and read voltage across terminals. report back. Then you can do the other tests.

            A newer battery can be killed by repeated run downs.

            Ideally you would want a load test on the battery.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

            Comment

              #7
              At night, see if the hood light is on. The bracket may be bent and need to be bent back into shape. This will drain a battery in about 3 days. Also check the trunk light. It should turn off before you get within 6 inches of closed.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment

                #8
                hood light, trunk light, glovebox light are all common ones. So are the illuminated mirrors. They shut off with a little microswitch that contacts the lid. If the tit on the lid is broken, or if the hinge is damaged it won't shut off.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment

                  #9
                  Thanks everyone for the tips. I'm working my way through them. I tried to start it yesterday and only got a click. Would that be my starter or starter solenoid? I recently replace the starter solenoid a few months ago. Also can you tell me if my starter solenoid is wired properly from what can be seen in the picture? What about the fusible wire that I have connected directly to the positive terminal? Should I put it on the starter solenoid instead? Thanks again for the help
                  @Ryan.Madison68

                  Comment

                    #10
                    The fusible link should be ok, I would start by testing the battery voltage at the battery at the input of the starter solenoid and directly at the starter while someone is cranking the car over.

                    If you have good voltage then tap on the starter while someone is cranking over the car.

                    I suspect the battery voltage is low because of the battery drain.
                    2007 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Your relay (solenoid) is wired "backwards" from the conventional way, where the connections to each of the big studs are reversed. But...it is a simple switch/relay, so what direction the current flows across the contacts does not matter, with one exception.

                      Is there any wire, possibly via a ring terminal, attached to the small threaded stud opposite the one shown with the red rubber plug on it? I do not know if one is expected to be there on your year or not (87 I think?), but if there is a wire on that, it is receiving 12V at all times when it is normally intended to only get 12V during cranking.

                      Current driver: the 91s
                      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS                       | 88 TC | 91 GM
                      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 92 Jaaag | 05 Focus
                      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM                      ​ |​ Junkyards

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                        #12
                        I'll switch the connections on the main studs to the conventional way. I have a nut on the terminal opposite of the red rubber plug. I've always wondered what the red rubber plug sending power to? I got it to start the other day by wiggling the wires a tad bit on the starter solenoid which I really don't think had much of an effect on things. But I'll try the tapping the starter and checking the voltage. Thanks guys
                        @Ryan.Madison68

                        Comment

                          #13
                          The red rubber plug is the 'input', so to speak, from the ignition switch. It is what engages the relay (solenoid). When you get +12V on the S terminal (where the red plug is), as well as ground where it bolts to the fender, the relay engages and the two big studs get connected together.

                          On the version of that part that has the 'I' terminal (the other small one - some of them do not have it at all, because it is not used on cars after a certain year), it is also connected to the big stud on the right-hand side (looking at it facing the studs, with the mounting holes pointing up).

                          Since nothing is connected to the 'I' terminal, this miswiring is not related to your battery drain...at least I can't see how it would be. But if something was connected to I, different story.

                          Current driver: the 91s
                          Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS                           | 88 TC | 91 GM
                          Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 92 Jaaag | 05 Focus
                          Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM                          ​ |​ Junkyards

                          Comment

                            #14
                            There shouldn't be anything on the I terminal after '85 I don't believe. My 86 came with a single terminal relay originally.

                            A multimeter set up to read current will tell the tale. Connect the meter to battery + and to the + lead while the lead is connected to the battery. Pull the cable off the battery and see what it says. Under 50ma would be considered normal, but the lower it is the longer you can go before the battery goes flat.

                            Also, be sure you're starting with a good, fully charged battery. Old ones have less amp-hour capacity so they'll go flat more quickly even if there is no current drain. Thats usually how I can tell mine are dying. If the car won't start after I have the doors open to vacuum and clean (~30 minutes), the battery is getting weak.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Update: I was able to get it to start after switching the starter solenoid main lug connections around. At first, it did the click click a few times, and I couldn't figure out what was going on. Then I tried shifting it to neutral and it fired right up. Does that mean my neutral safety switch is questionable? Afterwards I turned it off and on in park and it cranked fine. I'm a little puzzled. Also if it is my neutral safety switch does anyone have a picture of what I should be looking for, or where it is located? Thanks
                              @Ryan.Madison68

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