Ignition switch issue?

[turbo2256b]

This ones got me puzzled. The ignition switch has been giving me issues. once started had to make sure the key was pushed toward the start position or the turn signals and blower motor wouldnt work. Started up as usual this morning but radio was acting like the station was having issues. got to my sons and shut the car off and loaded up the kids for school. Turned the key no start just clicks. in the on position Radio sounded like it was receiving multiple stations, no display on the radio or trip minder, none of the switches worked on the radio or trip minder, no turn signals or blower motor and windows didnt work. Called friend and jumped the car started instantly but nothing mentioned worked.

Got home switched cars to get kids to school. Back home checked voltage 12.2. installed new switch noticed it came out of the package in the off position not the run position as described in the ford manual. installed the new switch same crap as above again. Did notice if turned the key to the accessory position everything in the dash board worked properly, radio all buttons worked, windows, tripminder worked , displays on. Battery on charger at this time.

The radio has been giving me issues for a while. When it rains or humidity real high it would buzz and or wine. yesterday after a lot of rain made a new sound a boom boom noise more like a boom box.

I hear several solenoids clicking besides the starters, starter click, hear the fuel pump running.
Any one got some ideas

[sly]

was the new one solid or did the 2 halves rattle at all? If the 2 halves are not making good contact, it'll do stuff like this. Also, if the connector contacts are sprung out a little or dirty, it'll do stupid stuff like this.

[turbo2256b]

ITS SOLID. Have had old ones in the past come apart. in this case the old one is solid between halves at least also.

[sly]

Then it's probably not the switch and most likely a connector or alternator voltage regulator issue.

[turbo2256b]

well still not charging. installed new switch, installed new ignition lock, charged battery. I believe the positioning of the lock and switch are better not as much play turning the lock. started caR still not charging.
checked alt no output failed all tests. installed new alt passed all tests before leaving store
checked grounds to frame and engine there ok.
checked wires from starter solenoid to plug at alt same as battery voltage.
checked amp indicator lamp didnt work. removed the bulb tested it connection was bad between the bulb wires and the twist in adapter. fixed it but waiting for the batt to charge to go further.
Everything in the car works as it should with key on or accessory. Also radio acts properly in all positions were before it acted weird in on or running positions none of the buttons worked no digital readout and sounded like 5 or 6 station being received at the same time with old alt installed.
been looking under the hood and under dash for burnt looking wires havent noticed any yet.
also been reading my ford manual for info and test procedures.

[turbo2256b]

The only thing not working is the indicator circuit. going to pull the gauge pod out today see if something is up with the pod plug in or printed circuit

[sly]

isn't there a way to add a resistor across the bulb in case the bulb goes out to keep the alternator running? Like a 500 ohm resistor or something? I vaguely remember that being a thing in newer cars.

[kishy]

isn't there a way to add a resistor across the bulb in case the bulb goes out to keep the alternator running? Like a 500 ohm resistor or something? I vaguely remember that being a thing in newer cars.

Prior to a certain year, there is a resistor across the bulb contacts on the printed circuit. It looks like a metal stick.

After a certain year, they switched to a bulb socket with an integrated resistor (normal looking, with coloured bands) inside of the bulb socket (thereby making the AMP light socket unique to that purpose).

In either case, if the bulb burns out but the circuit is otherwise intact, the alternator will still charge.

I don't know what's going on in this thread otherwise...phantom ghosties.

[sly]

Bah.

[gadget73]

yeah, bulb out, or broken connection somewhere along the way sounds like the issue. The indicator circuit goes through a plug over there on the fender, might be worth making sure that hasn't gone crusty.

[turbo2256b]

have tested the resistor 500 oms tested at 515 and one off spare merc cluster 525. making up some jumper wires to test some other things. funny thing i remember driving a couple of my boxes with out the gauge pods installed for days and weeks with no charging issues. so far have found no faulty inline fuses, grounds or wiring except the idiot light.
system check for power going to the indicator shows there is power going to it. there is power at what should be + side of the printed curcuit . with the resistor it shows power on what i would believe to be the negative side of the circuit. in short both sides of the bulb filaments are testing positive with resister attached. its like attaching a test light ground to a positive source then touching the positive end to another positive source.
with the resister removed one side shows power the other side none. so far have found and tested circuit going to but nothing on the other side of the circuit as to were it goes.

another thought pops in my head that it was sabotaged

[gadget73]

That sounds right, though it should still read + if the bulb is present. 515 is plenty close enough to 500 ohms. That was probably not tighter than 5% tolerance to begin with.

If you ground the green/red wire at the alternator, does the bulb come on?

Another thought, if you take a test light from battery + to the red/green while its plugged into the alternator and with the engine running, does it start charging? If so the alternator and all that is fine and the problem is somewhere on the idiot light circuit.

[turbo2256b]

found a wiring issue will post pics later. it was a splice previously done to get around were it failed at a connector. todays test at the regulator exposed which wire to look for.

[sly]