I think my 60Amp alt is failing, question about 3G

[adam.w.ackerman]

20 amp should do right? I think each link was 20 but I assume that was due to the charge circuit. Or should I do a pair of 20s and then a single run out to the solenoid?


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[VicCrownVic]

I believe each fuse link feeds a separate circuit (at least that would make sense to me). So you still want two fuses configured the same way as the fuse links like you described (one wire from the solenoid that splits to feed both, IIRC). You could feed both with separate feeds from the solenoid but then you're adding yet another thing connected to the solenoid adding to the cluttered look at the solenoid.

If you replace with just one 20A fuse then you are more likely to blow the fuse since the two circuits combined will both be drawing load through the one fuse. If you replace it with one 40A fuse (DON'T!) you are then more likely to damage whatever is being protected on those two circuits.

The assumptions I have made may have been answered by HRG.

[adam.w.ackerman]

Last question, do I need to dig out all of the fuse links? At least the ones I cut? Or can I tie on to what's left of them and come back out? I cut them just after the passenger side headlight exit the harness.


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[VicCrownVic]

No need to replace any you didn't touch. Although I know some people have replaced all their fuselinks with fuses, but it's not necessary to get you back up and running.

If the ones you did cut were cut in a way that they can be reused then that might be the quickest way to safely get things back up and running.

[adam.w.ackerman]

Excellent!


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[His Royal Ghostliness]

#1, fuse links are not really intended to protect any devices downstream, they should protect the wiring itself. Should the device, or a combination of devices, draw more power than the wires can safely handle, it's better to know exactly where the failure will occur (at the fuse link) as opposed to having the whole damn wire get hold and melt thru its insulation in several spots and short out to who knows what other circuits. How you select what fuse to run in place of a fuse link, well the way I've been doing it is add up the fuses of everything that is downstream from the fuse link, and then go next size up. Obviously that requires the knowledge of what actually lives downstream from each fuse link. And there is also the ampacity of the wire being protected to keep in mind, IIRC the black/orange cable is 8-awg there so that's your limiting factor.

#2, which fuse links exactly did Adam cut? If it's just the gray and the black ones that used to connect to the fat black/orange wire near the starter relay on the passenger-side fender, that's an easy fix - you leave the yellow/white wire alone (you have to loop the from the 3G connector to the charge stud then), and only run a fuse between the black/orange wire and the starter relay post where it used to hook up to. An no, 20 amp fuse won't suffice - you have to remember this wire was intended to carry the full alternator's charge minus whatever is bled off by means of ignition switch and fuse panel. Keep in mind the same fuse link is used for 100-amp alternators as well, and the car is fully capable of running on just ECM and fuel pump with everything else turned off - and both the fuel pump and the ECM have their own fuse links off the starter relay, which basically means that 12-awg fuse link on the charge cable can see the full 60-100 amps coming out the alternator.

So combining #1 with #2 it makes sense to me that a 60-amp fuse will be a pretty safe bet. It also needs to be a slow-blow fuse, so shit like the blower motor kicking in on top of other shit already running at full tilt won't spike-blow the new fuse. In automotive applications a slow-blow fuse is the MAXI fuse, you know the big assholes that newer vehicles use in their "power distribution centers". Where the hell you can find a MAXI fuse holder, beats me. But parts stores should be able to sell you a 12-awg fuse link.

Edit: question anything and everything you read on truck forums. Half the people there are complete morons who have no business fucking with anything on their truck, and half of the other half are just repeating info they heard or read on the internet with exactly zero first-hand knowledge of its accuracy. Take this from a guy whose trucks ownership outnumbers passenger car ownership 5:1

[adam.w.ackerman]

Well I just installed 2 20amp in lines and I know that resolved my no power issues. But the one on the yellow is not needed if I loop the yellow wire off the alt back to the stud and 20 amp is not enough for the rest...right?


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[adam.w.ackerman]

Appears you are correct, good till the blower is turned on.


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[adam.w.ackerman]

Appears you are correct, good till the blower is turned on.


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[adam.w.ackerman]

I think my 60Amp alt is failing, question about 3G

I can get a maxi hold and fuse for $16, do you think that is my best option?


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[adam.w.ackerman]

Okay, I did that. I think it's good now, I also like the idea that I pull the fuse and walk away . Thanks for all the help guys!


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[gadget73]

The blower fuse in the car is 25 or 30 amps. Total draw of the stuff in the car is probably 50-60 amps. A maxi-fuse around that size is appropriate.

Turn on the blower, headlights, rear defrost and try using the windows or power seat. If it holds, you're good. Even if you don't expect to run it all in one go, having the fuse fail and killing the engine randomly is unpleasant. Had it happen once in a traffic circle after the blower motor wiring shorted on my own car.

[adam.w.ackerman]

All done and I drove around with the AC on high and left it run while it got a bath, I think she is good go! A few new cables and she will be like new!


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[longroof87]

That reminds me, I need to run a new negative battery wire. Insulation's been falling off and missing a fair amount when I bought this turd two years ago.