Problems to Remove Headlight Switch GM '87

[JesusGM]

Hello Guys!

This is my first question!. I have problems with the highway lights, it turn on without problem, but after some minutes, the lights turn off for some seconds and then turn on...all over again. I was trying to remove the knob of the headlight switch to access to the command behind the dashboard (could be it the problem?)
However, I canīt remove the knob. I read the other post from this forum but I canīt find a solution. The knob does not have any clip or I canīt find any button, it seems to be fixed to the rod... any ideas?

Here is the pic of the switch and the car:




Thanks!
p.s: excuse me if my english grammar fails sometimes.

[Elias]

On my 88 I use a pair of pliers and put behind the knob and in front of the auto laps and pull up

[Kodachrome Wolf]

You gotta reach up behind the dash and feel around on top of the switch. When you have the knob pulled out to the on position, you should feel a little button you can push down on and that'll let you pull the knob out. I've done it a few times that I know exactly what to feel for.

[mcninetyone]

You gotta reach up behind the dash and feel around on top of the switch. When you have the knob pulled out to the on position, you should feel a little button you can push down on and that'll let you pull the knob out. I've done it a few times that I know exactly what to feel for.

He is right!!! The button is hard to find and some trouble if you have never done this. But once you understand where it is and how it works it easy!
My advice would be to look at another headlight switch at the auto parts store or at least look at a picture online.
That way you will see what you need to feel for on your switch.

[sly]

With some, the knob has a set screw in the side that a T6 star drive will fit (I think it's a hex screw, but no clue what size). Some have a clip holding it on and if you pull it out ans spin it, you can figure out which it is. If it's not a set screw, take a small flat screwdriver and press on the thin metal tab at the notch (towards the face of the knob) and it will pop off. Take the knob off and you can get the panel off and then take the switch out. There is a circuit breaker on the switch itself. You can either replace that (pain) or replace the switch. You will need to take the rod out and use it in the new switch. There is a button near the rear of the switch to press that will release the rod. All these people that reach up behind it to release the rod first are nuts.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Unfortunately most of these didn't get the removable knob, you gotta pull the whole rod assembly out. Why Ford did such an asshole move is beyond me, especially given that trucks of the same model years that use the same damn switch have a removable knob that comes out just as Sly explained with the little tang behind the knob itself... The release button is a total bitch to get to, especially if you have larger hands, and there's lots of sheetmetal around the area where you'll be reaching in so have some would disinfecting solution on standby as there's a good chance you will bleed some.

The other thing to consider is, while the circuit breaker built into the switch is obviously doing its thing, what's causing it to do so? High current draw is what it's supposed to protect against, and high current draw is usually cause by either overly powerful headlights (which obviously doesn't happen on its own) or bad wiring connection somewhere (headlights sockets being the prime suspect there). So I'd say before you mess with the switch take a look at the headlights where the wires connect to them, you may have some corrosion going on at the contacts there that is tripping the headlights switch breaker.

[gadget73]

There is also a connector on the driver's side fender, near the washer bottle that contains all of the wiring going up to the headlights and such. Make sure that is in good shape. It will sometimes develop a bad connection and you will see melted plastic there.

[Tiggie]

I haven't had any problems getting to the button on my 88. But I don't have gorilla hands. You got to get up in there anyway to get the switch out. I have had problems pulling the shaft out once the button is pushed. But they come out eventually.

Get a Motorcraft switch when you get a replacement. Not sure where you can get that where you live but Rockauto.com should ship there.

[GM_Guy]

Boy, here is an image I have not posted in probably 10 years, the headlight switch is not in the proper orientation, but it'll give you a visual of the little spring loaded button you are feeling for.

And if you happen to have flickering dash lights, then you will need to replace the headlight switch connector as well (napa EC6 pigtail)

Alex.

[HiFiMerc]

When I replaced the headlight switch on my '92, I used one from Napa. It seems to be built pretty well. On par with the original.

Food for thought.

[GM_Guy]

Probably made by the same manfacturer. A lot of the Generals electrical components at Napa are from the same manufacturer as the original.

[turbo2256b]

rEMEMBER GETTING AT THE LIGHT SWITCH WITH THE DIMMER set up was more of a pain to remove

[JesusGM]

Thanks to all for your responses!
Finally, I reach the button and release the knob! (thanks for the pic, Alex!). I checked the connections and wires and looks in good shape. I clean the contacts but the problem still ocurs.
As I notice, there is a headlight dimmer under the steering wheels, maybe could be the problem?. Also, I donīt see any problems with the wires under the hood or the connections to the headlamps.
Despite the problem could not be there, the experience was good to know how it works! Also, I notice that the speedometer does not work, maybe the next problem to take care on the dashboard...
I need to get the most accurate diagnosis since Iīm in Chile and I need to import the spare parts, or better I replace them anyway?

[gadget73]

Can you check the switch with a volt meter to see if it has voltage going out to the headlights? The power goes from the switch on the dash to the high/low beam switch in the column, then out to the lights. A problem with either can make your lights not operate, but you would need to check with a meter to see where the problem is.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Jesus, good thing you were able to take the thing apart, and it wasn't a very fun experience was it? Yes, as gadget said the dimmer switch on the steering column behind the steering wheel can certainly be the reason why you're having these issues. That switch is a complicated assembly because it controls not only the headlights but also the turn signals (blinkers) - people fairly rarely switch between low beams and high beams (highway lights as you called them), but the turn signals need to be used all the time, so as that part of the switch wears out it can affect the part that controls your headlights.

To get the steering column dimmer switch (it's usually called a multi-function switch here by the way, cause it literally has multiple functions it performs) you'll have to remove the plastic cover/shroud pieces around the steering column. Tilt your steering wheel all the way up and the bottom piece will come off easy enough. To get the upper piece off first locate the two big nuts that hold the steering column to the dash - they are on the underside of the dash, in the area above the brake pedal, you're looking for a big aluminum brace that runs across the steering column and has a nut on each end. Loosen these nuts enough to allow the steering column to lower away from the dash, the proper socket to use here is 9/16" but a worn out 14mm or a tight 15mm will get the job done as well. You also want to place the shift lever in position "1" before messing with these nuts because if you don't the entire steering column is likely to get hung up on the tiny cable that operates you transmission gear selection indicator (the "PRND31" thing under the speedometer) and either snap said cable or break the mechanism it operates, both are bad thing to happen. Shifter in "1" makes removal of the upper column cover piece easier anyways, so yeah, just do it. With the shifter in "1" position and the column lowered, tilt the steering wheel all the way down, and the upper column cover piece will now come off without much of a fight.