heater valve - cheap Chinese crap!

[alchemist]

I replaced the original heater control valve (the thing that keeps heat from blowing cold until engine warms up) back in 2012, thinking its electronics were fried. I got a Factory Air 74582 from Advance and my son tells me the damn thing is leaking now. I would think its really easier to just stick a hose barb in there (3/4" I think??) and connect the two wire ends and plug the vacuum lines too.

Will this create any other issues for his heat control?

thanks

[jaywish]

It will just not keep the blower from turning on when the coolant is cold.

[VicCrownVic]

The solution you are describing is what a lot of people with ATC do.
Or, instead of the hose barb you could order a hose for a non ATC system (http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....199&cc=1199527 or http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....004&cc=1199527) if the hoses are due for replacement.

[alchemist]

Thanks guys for the quick reply. I replaced the hose on the right side of the valve just last year, but the heater hose from firewall to valve is older. Aren't there also vacuum lines? Do you know where they go to/come from? I know this all sounds pretty lame - my son is about 350 miles away and I'm 99% sure where he's pointing to is the valve that's leaking.

[gadget73]

Jumper the electrical connector, plug the two vacuum lines, connect the heater hose or replace it with a new one meant for a non-ATC car to avoid the splice.

I had one of those explode about 3 months after I put it on the car. it pumped all of the coolant out in about 2 miles. Its been gone since.

[DerekTheGreat]

I've heard nothing but terrible things about the aftermarket replacement ones. I've even opened up one I found in the yard and all the internals are NFG compared to OEM ones. I am an idiot so I will go about bypassing one so that it looks factory, meaning I will remove the spring that acts against the thermostatic piston thing and jump the pins together inside the doo-hickey. If that fails then I will do what gadget73 said.

[gadget73]

My concern is that its a plastic part that deteriorates from heat and can/will eventually cause a coolant leak. I'm not real fond of plastic in high heat applications, especially when it seems to generally be a shite grade of plastic that gets brittle and cracks apart.

[DerekTheGreat]

I'm not a fan of that either but I like to maintain things as they were from the factory. I struggle with that sometimes but the older I get, the more I appreciate non modified. If the wiring harness and vacuum lines could be removed without cutting them then I'd have done that already. Would make me warm and toasty to know that despite the stuff being removed, it can go back for whatever the reason.

[Tiggie]

My 88 had an aftermarket one when I got it. It was melted looking. Replaced with old junkyard one. Been good ever since. I use regular non molded heater hose for that part. Doesn't look quite as clean but functions well makes for an easy emergency heater core bypass.

[sly]

My 88 had an aftermarket one when I got it. It was melted looking. Replaced with old junkyard one. Been good ever since. I use regular non molded heater hose for that part. Doesn't look quite as clean but functions well makes for an easy emergency heater core bypass.

This on my 88.

[DerekTheGreat]

My original worked for about three months after I got it. Then the blower quit. Took it apart and there's no corrosion or funny business. So I cleaned it anyway, greased the thermostatic piston thing, put dielectric grease on the pins & resealed it. Was good for another three months and quit again. Not sure what the fuggin' issue is.

[jaywish]

The ford units are about $60 from Rock. Don't know what they are from Tasca parts.

[DerekTheGreat]

Jay, would you happen to have the part number? Didn't know you could buy Ford ones...

[jaywish]

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....434353&jsn=449