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    Newer style starter upgrade and fender solenoid

    So I know you must move the starter engagement wire (big black wire F7VF) to the always hot side of the terminal on the fender relay, but here is my dilemma:



    The hot side is full of crap! Now this picture is older and since I have moved that 175A fuse to a small junction box closer to the 3G alternator, but I also have a stereo system in the trunk (Red 10Ga wire) . What have you guys done to minimize or eliminate some of these connections at the fender solenoid? I thought about moving some directly to the battery + by installing a new cable with multiple connectors and wires on it.

    I would LOVE to make that little circuit breaker (Yellow 14Ga wire) go away, as well as those fusible links there!
    Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 06-04-2016, 11:46 AM.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Leave that mess alone and just loop the little wire on the starter back to the fat wire on the starter. Done.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      Yeah that should work. Basically what you're doing is both powering the starter and triggering it at the same time. No downside to that setup that I can think of, and you end up with a starter that is not hot-powered all the time - that's always good in my book.
      The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
      The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

      Comment


        #4
        I'd get rid of ALL the fusible links by installing an aero fuse box or the like.

        Here is my engine bay/battery area:






        Underneath the battery on vertical piece of the plastic inner fender I mounted a mega fuse holder for the 3g alternator charge wire. I actually relocated my starter wire to that mega fuse block. It has battery power already so it helped me keep the clutter down at the fender mounted solenoid.

        I have a MASSIVE cable from the battery to the solenoid as well as a 4 gauge wire for the amp in the trunk and another hefty cable going to the aero fuse box. Another cable on the fuse box looping right down to the mega fuse holder where the mega fuse is and the starter wire.


        I think I read something that advised against the "easy" way around wiring in the newer starters. I will look it up and report back.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          Disregard my comment against the "easy" way. I mixed up a thread talking about deleting the fender mounted solenoid in its entirety.
          ~David~

          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

          Originally posted by ootdega
          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

          Originally posted by gadget73
          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
            I'd get rid of ALL the fusible links by installing an aero fuse box or the like.
            Do we have a proper write-up on this disaster? I mean something that list exactly which wire gets hooked up to which MAXI fuse, and such? That is sorta important, since fuse links are not usually rated in amperage, and also not all wires inside the fuse box are the same size. I recall having a bear of a time deciding how to hook mine up, ended up matching wire sizes as close as possible and then selecting the fuse sizes based on what's downstream along the respective circuit (EVTM helps big time here).
            The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
            The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

            Comment


              #7
              Short answer is No.

              long answer is:

              The EVTM tells you the size of the fusible link.

              Fusible link is always 4 gauges smaller than the wire circuit it is protecting.

              Now you know the wire sizes of the circuits and you use a chart (don't know where or what chart I used is now) to see the max ampherage capable through siad wire gauge. Fuse accordingly. Been fine in my car since 2010.

              This link and petes may be the closest we have to a write up....






              I think for aero fuse box side of things common sense comes into play when choosing what wires/sizes to use.
              ~David~

              My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
              My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

              Originally posted by ootdega
              My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
              But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

              Originally posted by gadget73
              my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




              Comment


                #8
                When I did mine, I looked at the later fuse box's ratings for the equivalent circuit and just used those values. Nothing has managed to catch fire or blow fuses yet. Guess it worked.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
                  The EVTM tells you the size of the fusible link.

                  Fusible link is always 4 gauges smaller than the wire circuit it is protecting.

                  Now you know the wire sizes of the circuits and you use a chart (don't know where or what chart I used is now) to see the max ampherage capable through siad wire gauge. Fuse accordingly.
                  Yup, so basically the same thing I did. Except I was also adding up the fuses of everything in the under-dash fuse panel that runs off each main wire. Cause, would be no fun if it were easy.

                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  When I did mine, I looked at the later fuse box's ratings for the equivalent circuit and just used those values. Nothing has managed to catch fire or blow fuses yet. Guess it worked.
                  Now that's just cheating any way you look at it
                  The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                  The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
                    Yup, so basically the same thing I did. Except I was also adding up the fuses of everything in the under-dash fuse panel that runs off each main wire. Cause, would be no fun if it were easy.


                    Now that's just cheating any way you look at it

                    Thain's way makes the most sense.
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cheat to win

                      You could get analytic and wire in an ammeter and turn on all of the stuff on that circuit to determine full load amperage, then add some amount for surge and size it accordingly but that sounds like actual work.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I dont even use those POS solenoids any more. Instead use the the heavy duty T style ones since they have longer terminal posts. Guessing they shortened up some of the styles to save money on the MFG end and screw you.
                        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That's a pretty clean lookin' engine bay I must say. Also is that a fuel injected 351W with Lightning intakes? I'm sure I could figure it out and work those wires into a fuse box, but it would be work. I'll have to think about it lol.
                          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
                            I dont even use those POS solenoids any more. Instead use the the heavy duty T style ones since they have longer terminal posts. Guessing they shortened up some of the styles to save money on the MFG end and screw you.
                            Might have to do that.
                            1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                            Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
                              That's a pretty clean lookin' engine bay I must say. Also is that a fuel injected 351W with Lightning intakes? I'm sure I could figure it out and work those wires into a fuse box, but it would be work. I'll have to think about it lol.
                              David just had to drop that picture in here didn't he?

                              Looks great indeed, everything pretty much looks factory and that's what I dig.
                              1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                              1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                              Comment

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