Motorcraft SW5924 Cruise Control Switch Replacement

[_Hacksaw]

Well;

I *still* believe that this will be very easy. Famous last words right?! Briefly, my Cruise control buttons for "set" are nearly DOA as per use at 81k which I find ironically very odd. This is for my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis GS. I "can" see two circular ports or plugs on the rear of each side of the steering wheel and then what appear to be bolts holding what I assume to be 'removal' of this plastic plate that covers this area in the back part of this steering wheel. Now the question I fear asking! Do I need to remove the steering wheel to replace the Cruise Control Switch on the silly steering wheel with my car or did they actually make one that can or is easily serviced this way? I thought the latter until I started reading some reviews for this part on Amazon.com just as I was about to order this replacement assembly.

Let me know what the process and procedure is with this part and switch. It still might be very easy?

_Hacksaw

[sly]

Remove the negative battery cable. Tap the brakes. Wait a minute for good measure.

Remove the bomb by removing the nuts on the back of the steering wheel.

unplug old wire harness to buttons... remove buttons... reverse with new buttons.

see breakout diagram from fordparts.com

[_Hacksaw]

Hehehehehe.....so I have to put on my military grade Bomb tech suit for all of this eh? Not a problem! Now in all honesty, this may actually be very "easy" as per your wonderful help and clear instructions as I *love* this car and I use the CC as often as possible on freeway and back country roads in the wine country ( and no, I don't drink alcohol and have DP plates as well ). This allows me to drive the County and City street cops fully nuts when they follow as I can keep it at exactly 40 mph or even 55 mph when instructed as they have little to do there. It appears that those bolts release the 'Bomb' to be carefully set aside during this process as well as to give one entry into the electrics in this matter. Great, these parts will be ordered tonight! Btw. I am replacing the Club on the steering wheel after the Memorial Day theft attempt due to an odd "Made in China" quality control issue and will replace it with the newer elegant Chrome LX version. Should look very spiffy and the manufacturer has been very pleasant with all of this as per our email exchanges. Now to order the CC switch! Will report all progress back here as it happens. Again my deepest thanks!

Ok, I cannot resist. There is / was a small very new ( brand new with paper plates ) UGI sedan ( universal generic import ) parked near me here that was hit on the passenger side front head on. Both airbags released and yet they were able to drive it home and park it. Jesus...all plastic and foam and *nothing* up front to protect anyone. Scary stuff to see and examine close up. All of these cars need brush guards or those very expensive and well built custom push bar assemblies for real front end protection. At least with the V8 Mercury I have something major to content with in such situations. Worth every penny in any extra gas price/s. No way would I ever drive those small cars! Total death traps and unstable in the windy fog off the bay at 65 mph on the freeway here.

[_Hacksaw]

Okay. I ordered the CC Motorcraft replacement parts for my car last night from Rock Auto and it is now in the mail stream from Canada I believe. The part number is SW5924. It should arrive soon here via First Class mail and then....I will very 'carefully' refer to your instruction and diagram to defuse the bomb before replacement. Just as long as I do not have to 'remove' the actually silly steering wheel itself, this may actually be relatively 'easy' vs. say a motor mount ( Eeek! ) At present I can still 'set' the speed using the old assembly, however I really have to dig in very hard with my thumb to do this with so time is limited with this. It's not critical and yet important. Btw. a note to all here. I took the 1998 MGM to the new Firestone shop one town over for a much needed oil change and the difference at over 3k with the synthetic blend with liquid titanium etc. is stunning. It's so smooth at idle at times that I question where the engine is still running! I was about to perform this *before* the creeps tried to steal my beloved car and led to a real scramble to rebuild the ignition cylinder assembly and it's related parts. So I am getting caught up one could say. Still just one excellent oil change on time every 3k works amazing wonders for these cars. The real pill is waiting for just the correct coupon so I can have the transmission fluid replaced at 81k as I am not sure if the original owner did this despite being told that the dealership did the maintenance on this car prior to me purchasing it. I just want to get this nailed down this summer. I believe I was told this is needed every 20k or 25k and was and remain concerned as I believed it was supposed to be every 70k?

_Hacksaw

p.s. Ok, more op/ed now: Many people are asking about buying my car now and I find that ironic. Its a very proven platform and they know a lot about it now as per all of it's years of use and production. The only replacement would be a new ( used ) truck or something as per it's weight and stability and yet it gets much better gas mileage than these new trucks! Wilder, it does not slide down steep hills when they become wet or rain saturated out here. TBC ( to be continued! ).

[sly]

there's really no need to be so uber careful and stuff with the bomb, just set it with the pad up (bolts down) on the ground outside the car and keep the connector away from crap. Other than that, once it's out of the way, it should be easy to get the buttons replaced. Then just plug everything back in and bolt it all down. But always stand to the side of the bomb when plugging/unlpugging... just in case.

[_Hacksaw]

there's really no need to be so uber careful and stuff with the bomb, just set it with the pad up (bolts down) on the ground outside the car and keep the connector away from crap. Other than that, once it's out of the way, it should be easy to get the buttons replaced. Then just plug everything back in and bolt it all down. But always stand to the side of the bomb when plugging/unlpugging... just in case.

Many thanks. The Rock Auto Motorcraft replacement buttons arrived today here as I just returned home. Jesus, these new buttons actually 'click' when you press on them. This is going to be interesting to say the very least. Let me first see if I have a socket that can defuse the bomb carefully and with ease *after* the big disconnect of the battery. This should be easy I am not going to touch "anything" until later in the week, as I am going to be exhausted from the long drive tomorrow and then another early morning medical appointment on Wednesday. I also bought a used FSM that should arrive soon via eBay. I 'll be curious to see just how clear or vague it all is with all of this or any other such replacements. Frequently one needs to just come to the 'well' to discuss such matters as there are so many things ( repairs ) that come up that are not in any book.

So I will continue this next week and look forward to crisp and clear working CC buttons! Still, I will be very cautious and careful with this as I have no experience with airbags and do not desire to learn any lessons the expensive way. So battery disconnect first!

_Hacksaw

[_Hacksaw]

The cruise control replacement update:

Ah-ha, my famous last words have returned to sort of 'haunt' and 'taunt' after all. First off many thanks for the very *easy* instructions on removing the airbag bomb assembly *after* the primary battery is fully disconnected and any capacitors are fully discharged. I just got back in from doing what I could for today and removed the bomb. Then the electrical connectors ( actually more of a pain ) and then...I finally realised that, yep, the steering wheel has to be removed in order to even get at this buttons let alone replace them. I had a premonition that this 'might' be the case and it appears to be true. Rats! Still, it looks fairly easy?

While I have photographs and HD ones at that, the primary culprit appears to be the torx screw or bolt holding the steering wheel in place %$#@!. It says '89' or '98' on this critter and I don't have any that large for starters and will have to purchase one. While the FSM arrived yesterday, I am not sure where to look for the exact 'size' of this torx insert. I can only guess. Anyone know for 101% certainty it's number or value? What is the torque specification for this on it's way back in also? Again, maybe the FSM will have this all and I will search now.

After an 'easy' reassembly with zero error codes after the battery was reconnected etc. I returned and brought out my special lubricant for sensitive electronic switches and hosed this difficult switch deeply from the outside many times and containing any runoff. Maybe this will help in between my search for the correct missing torx insert. I am going to take this slowly and yet it looks very straight forward to remove this wheel. I just didn't expect to find it this way. So for now I feel positive about all of the work I did today as I also lubed all of the control arm bushings and anything with rubber to it, including the Pitman arm bearing, with Silicon spray lube. That may settle down this one squeak that I have heard. I also will have this car checked very carefully for any wheel alignment after they went at it over Memorial Day weekend as I keep thinking I have to turn this damn wheel to the right so many degrees even on easy flat ground? *&$#@! Still, if it's minor it's OK. Just nothing to do with the steering wheel or column gear assembly! I don't want to think that far ahead at present and I like to keep things very slow and careful with this car. So just one roadblock at this time or a temporary pause in the action with lessons learned.

_Hacksaw | Thursday, July 16th.

[sly]

well that sucks.

[_Hacksaw]

well that sucks.

Yes indeed! I just looked at the FSM and the instructions are fully horrid. It ( the bolt ) is referred to as the steering wheel retainer bolt and one I'm supposed to 'discard' after removal ( Duh?! ). I will search for one at Ford Parts.com and yet I will need a specail steering wheel puller also. More fun eh? Shoot. It looks so easy and simple, but there is no way around the plastic shroud, and no way to remove it or pull it aside apparently. Now I am pissed. As with all such things that appear difficult, what I might do it pay a visit to the local dealership and buy a replacement bolt and pray that they do not change $14.95 for the damn thing plus tax here which adds another ten % onto everything. Maybe I can obtain some instruction or tips from them or.....pause.....wait to see *if* this switch cleaner and lube has any effect on the 'set' position for this two part switch assembly and play the game from there. Shoot! So close. I am going to just go out and find a girl friend and leave this to god or something?!!! I'll be back with this *after* I obtain some facts in this maddness. Still, it's nothing compared to the ignition cylinder bearings and the retainer! Talk about a trip to hell, but there are various versions of hell and we have all walked there. I am not going to allow this to get to me. So for now I am going to slow it down and obtain more information, one step at a time as removal of the wheel actually looked easy until I read about the silly puller! I can rent one and have another inside here that I never used. So let me check on this pricy bolt from the fellow at Ford, the one that is supposed to be torqued to about 32 foot lbs when replaced.

[sly]

meh... I wouldn't worry about reusing the bolt. Just put some blue locktite on it when you put it back in.

[GM_Guy]

I don't know of the 1998, but look at the wheel, if you see threaded holes on either side of the mounting bolt it uses a conventional steering wheel puller. If there are no bolt holes, a conventional 2-arm puller is all you will need. Take a look and you will see to ridges to hook the puller behind.

No service manual gives you wrench size needed, they assume you have full sets of everything. And you should, given the ever widening use of torx fasteners.
The numbers you see have nothing to do with the size, it is the strength rating of the bolt. Probably going to be a t50 or t55.

Personally, I'd reuse the bolt. Tighten it, but don't get all gorilla armed on it. It is there to keep the steering wheel from getting pulled off the shaft, not to transmit turning forces.

Out of curiosity, what is the country of origin on your new switches?

Alex.

[_Hacksaw]

Ah, first things first now. Let me bring up the clear HD photograph of this working issue right here: Well at least I will attempt to load it up: Maybe this is it. Let me check this out using the preview. Unable. Anyhow you can see the configuration of the screw holes as well as the instructions to "pull" at two locations. Might this need a special Ford puller or is it an 'easy' one to remove?

I am reading your detailed description as I type now. Let me refer to my photograph that I shut down before the upload. I am unable to view it at present w/o major concerns as per losing this post, so I will allow you to view everything after I post this correctly and try again if it gives me some grief.

As per the torx, you are correct, this FSM is just that a 'Factory Service Manual' and not a DIY manual for shade tree mechanics etc. Ah, the numbers indicate the 'strength' of said bolt. My deepest thanks as I am desire to work in metals as a sculptor here and *need* to know such things and much more as per outside use alone with many metals and materials just not being able to take pretty much anything outside in the sun and heat ( serious issues at times! ). WE do not have the cold in California but the sun is hellish even in January.

Yes, on the reuse of this bolt. I suspect that is just the factory replacement guide for Ford service and it's a good safety idea for critical parts. It also brings back a wild experience my younger brother had when on a trip many decades ago to Vermont where we both grew up. He rented a Toyota I believe and as he was driving the damn thing the steering wheel bolts all snapped and he was left with the damn wheel in his hands while still driving. He was able to land it safely but it was surreal. Guess they had materials and torque issues back then as happens to all. Still the steering wheel bolt?

Now the Motorcraft switches: Great question as the box arrived with re-sealed parts. Let me see what or if I can find anything on them. Ah, made in Mexico! Anything and I mean anything but India or China! Still, is anything made here anymore?

_Hacksaw "Hoping this photo will load as hoped now...."

I don't know of the 1998, but look at the wheel, if you see threaded holes on either side of the mounting bolt it uses a conventional steering wheel puller. If there are no bolt holes, a conventional 2-arm puller is all you will need. Take a look and you will see to ridges to hook the puller behind.

No service manual gives you wrench size needed, they assume you have full sets of everything. And you should, given the ever widening use of torx fasteners.
The numbers you see have nothing to do with the size, it is the strength rating of the bolt. Probably going to be a t50 or t55.

Personally, I'd reuse the bolt. Tighten it, but don't get all gorilla armed on it. It is there to keep the steering wheel from getting pulled off the shaft, not to transmit turning forces.

Out of curiosity, what is the country of origin on your new switches?

Alex.

[GM_Guy]

See the words 'Pull'? Feel in that location for a ridge to hook a puller arm behind.

Alex.

[_Hacksaw]

Ah, yes, I saw those on my iPhone in HD before I posted this and wondered about just that. Ironically the FSM shows the two screw puller that does not apply in this case or with this car oddly. However I have some very interesting news as per just now and it's first test drive. I warmed up the "Limo" as I call it here and made two stops and got some driving ( test drive ) in at 26 mph which is just enough to activate the CC switch. So after really soaking it the other day it seems to have cleaned this silly switch by a percentile of about 60% and it's so much easier with my injured thumb ( right hand ). I will be really test driving it tomorrow on a 140 mile day trip and will bring along the can of lube with me to put some more in just to see if this is a 'dust' issue vs. what I believed to be a compression failure of this one rocker switch ( the set and cruise ). I had no idea that this was possible until tonight, so more to follow. Hell, if I can clean this out I may just hold tight on any replacement. That's a major "if" as I am not sure what is occurring at this time and what will be acceptable. However, before I had to nail this switch *very* hard to get it to 'set'. Not so tonight! So let me see what the baseline is with this switch and then proceed from there.

So full test drive update to follow. It would be ironic that I was able to reverse this all and *not* have to pull the silly wheel off. One fellow visiting from Austin TX here who I talked to as he worked on his '62 yellow dune buggy, said it was odd that such CC switches would mechanically fail at only 64k ~ 81k as my mileage currently is. So maybe this is dust and oxide etc.? Will know more soon and post accordingly. This could all twist and turn very soon here. Stay tuned. Again my deepest thank for your wonderful illustration. Looks beautiful and is very instructive.

Au Bientot;

_Hacksaw

[GM_Guy]

Oxidization of the contacts likely.

Alex.