Turn Signals and Blower motor intermittently not working.

[Raymond]

So today I started experiencing a weird problem. My blower motor and turn signals are not working. I started the car up, and neither one would do anything. The AC is working and I can feel cold air inside the vent, but the blower isn't doing anything. At the same time, the turn signals on the cluster won't work and outside the car. Then just at random as I'm turning into a gas station (and still signaling out of habit even though they aren;t working) they both come on at the same time. When I fill up and come back, same thing again; neither work. Then as I'm driving home, all of a sudden the blower starts up and the signals works when I try it.

Any thoughts?

[gadget73]

What year car? A lot of the 80s models had sketchy ignition switches that would drop power out on circuits like this. I lost turn signals randomly and the radio would kick in and out when mine was giving up. You might get it to duplicate by moving the key just a little bit. If that makes it go, change the ignition switch before it decides to catch on fire.

[Raymond]

It's an 88 GMG so I'll give that a check.

[Raymond]

Just got back in from replacing the heater bypass hose and played with the ignition while it was running. It's exactly what you said. I started it and no blinkers/blower. I jiggled it forward and bam the kick on. So looks like that'll be added to the list of to do's.

[gadget73]

yeah, do that sooner rather than later.

[sly]

yeah, do that sooner rather than later.

+1 the ignition original switch in these cars are a fire hazard, just like the 2G alternetor

[Raymond]

Ok I'll do it ASAP. This will sound scrubby, but when you say ignition are we talking the tumbler? As in this part:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=386532&cc=1199471&jnid=447&jpid=7

Or the starter switch:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44054&cc=1199471&jnid=446&jpid=3

[miamibob]

I'll let them "kick in" but they were referring to the latter.

[gadget73]

The switch. Its on the side of the column if you remove the shrouds. SHould be a security Torx bit, the one with the peg in the middle of it. If its the goofy headless screw thing, a stud removal tool or tools desiged to remove rounded off bolts will get it out. A dremel to cut a slot and a screwdriver will do it too, depending what you've got on hand.

[Raymond]

Thanks fellas. I looked in the Haynes manual I bought on Amazon for $1.58 (lol) and I see what you are talking about. I will order one today and not drive it until I get it replaced. So far from reading the manual on my year it is:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Set key to RUN.
3. Remove the shrouds from the steering column.
4. Remove torx screws.
5. Unplug the switch.
6. Then reverse the process, making sure the new switch is in the RUN position. The manual advised that new switches should come preset to RUN.

[gadget73]

Something like that. Basically just engage the pin sticking out of the column with the slot on the switch. I don't remember setting my key switch to anything particular, most likely I just moved it until it lined up and bolted it together. Whether that was "run" or not, I couldn't tell you.

[Raymond]

Got it changed. I stopped at O'Reillys and the BWD in stock for $17.xx and I had a $10 off coupon. . Since the column doesn't drop the upper cover was in the way for the one screw. I had to go back to the store for star keys with the hole in the middle for the tamper screw.

As soon I unplugged the old switch it all dropped apart. =/ .

[sly]

same happened when I changed the old one out of my 88. old one fell apart.

[gadget73]

yeah thats common. Usually a good indicator that it needed changing.