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    What causes alternator fires?

    What causes the alternator fires? The previous owner replaced the alternator, (aprox 6 months ago) but it was not with a 3g unit.

    Since winter has hit, I would like to use the heat for my car, but I am wondering what causes the alternators to catch fire? Am I safe in using the heat, or is it something I should be cautious about? I am getting a winter beater in a couple weeks, so I don't need it for all winter, I just wanna make sure my car won't go up in flames.


    1990 Colony Park, with HO swap.

    Previously:
    1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier.
    88 CVLX
    01 Marquis

    #2
    The heat shouldn't be an issue. The heat is from the hot coolant that goes through the heater core in a plastic box (plenum) behind the dash. When you turn the heat on, the air gets directed past the heater core to heat it. So using the heat in itself shouldn't cause an increase in the load on the alternator. If you use the blower motor on high, that would increase the load on the alternator. I don't know the details of what causes the alternator fires, so I'm looking forward to hearing what others have to say.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

    Comment


      #3
      From what I stand, the charge passes through a crappy plastic plug, which deteriorates and melts over time. The 3G units have the charge cable bolt onto a metal stud, which will never melt or catch fire. The charge wire on the 3G is thicker too.

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      Last edited by L1011tristar17; 11-17-2014, 08:45 PM.

      1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
      2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
      2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

      Comment


        #4
        High current also passes thru another crappy plastic connector down under the air intake duct, by the inner fender. That one is prone to salt and water exposure. The one on my dad's '91 literally fell apart when I tried to disconnect it.
        1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.

        Comment


          #5
          Its heat, but caused by electrical resistance, not under-hood heat. Its more a matter of current load than anything else. If the connector was replaced with the alternator, its probably OK. make sure the connection is clean, and maybe smash some dielectric grease in there to keep it sealed up. If the connector looks like its about to crumble, replace it.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the feedback. I really want this car to last till it can be stored.


            1990 Colony Park, with HO swap.

            Previously:
            1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier.
            88 CVLX
            01 Marquis

            Comment


              #7
              Yep, somebody at Ford had the genius idea to use push-on spade terminals for a high amp charge connection... Female spades are notorious for opening up after repeated unplugging.
              Like they said, as long as it looks pretty new or at least not melted it should be ok. You could feel it for heat, as long as its not hotter to the touch than the case of the alternator it's good. Touch with caution if your fingertipss aren't calloused up like mine.

              The 3G swap can be cheap and easy if you want to add it to your project list
              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
              sigpic
              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

              Comment


                #8
                Its on the list. Just not wanting to spend $ before I store it.


                1990 Colony Park, with HO swap.

                Previously:
                1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier.
                88 CVLX
                01 Marquis

                Comment


                  #9
                  It looks like you have the upgraded charging system.

                  Would you be able to show some photos of what your system looks like. I will be doing mine soon.

                  Originally posted by L1011tristar17 View Post
                  From what I stand, the charge passes through a crappy plastic plug, which deteriorates and melts over time. The 3G units have the charge cable bolt onto a metal stud, which will never melt or catch fire. The charge wire on the 3G is thicker too.

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]41431[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]41432[/ATTACH]
                  "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                  -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                  -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                  -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                  -2011 Subaru Outback

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I posted a thread when I did the swap a year or two ago

                    Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.


                    The swap is pretty straightforward. The new alternator fits into place with a different sized nut and bolt (the top hole on the 3G isn't threaded like the 2G). Charge cable runs from the battery (with a 175A fuse) to the post on the 3G. Grab that charge cable and the wiring pigtail for the voltage regulator from a Taurus in the junkyard. The green wire connects to the AMP light and gets soldered. That's essentially it!

                    1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
                    2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
                    2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

                    Comment


                      #11
                      THANKS! Well done.
                      How are the lights?
                      No more dimming?
                      Where is the amp light that the green guy goes to?
                      So you had to get a new belt, eh? 505k6 belt (same size as a 2000's Escort)



                      Good thread.

                      I heard from a guy that runs an alternator/starter shop that the 2g's were a big problem. They threatened Ford with jacking up insurance premiums if they didn't fix this.

                      I apologize for thread jacking!
                      "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                      -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                      -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                      -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                      -2011 Subaru Outback

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Its the idiot light in the dashboard that says AMP, or maybe its Batt. Whatever the "yo dawg, yo shit is gonna go dead" light happens to be.



                        The lights don't dim anymore with an alternator that doesn't suck. I have underdrive pullies on my car and they still don't dim.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Look up 3G conversion threads. There are tons of them and several have wiring diagrams, which make it even easier to visualize the swap. The lights do dim a little if the subwoofers are going, but it is barely noticeable. The JY alternator I got two years ago is still going strong.

                          If you want to retain the original belt size, you can always swap the 2G pulley onto the 3G.

                          1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
                          2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
                          2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ya 2g's aren't just fired hazards due to the stupid connections, they also just suck in general.
                            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                            Comment


                              #15
                              nice!
                              "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                              -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                              -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                              -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                              -2011 Subaru Outback

                              Comment

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