Big 3/4/Grounding kit to supplement 3G conversion. How do?

[ootdega]

I've done what research I can on it and I have the gist of what needs to be done, but I don't have the know-how to tell where exactly I should connect the wires in my car specifically. A lot of the information I'm sifting through is going over my head because I don't know what wires go where and what they do. I'm good with the mechanical, but not the electrical.

I've also heard it would be beneficial to ground the spark plugs and transmission, and I have absolutely no idea where or how to do that.

Once I know what I need to know, this should be pretty easy to do myself even without many tools.

It's an 89 Grand Marquis GS.

[sly]

the ground cable from the batter goes to the frame and the engine block. Some folks upgrade that to a fatter wire (not really needed). The smaller wire that goes to the upper rad support is pretty skinny though and that one would do nicely with an upgrade. I don't remember off the top of my head what size wire people like to use (I think 8 gauge). This helps allow better current to almost everything in the car (lights, radio, etc). It's the one thing I keep forgetting to do with my 88.

[ootdega]

It's 0 gauge that every video I've seen on it has advised using.

They've all pretty much said one from the alternator bracket to the frame, one from the negative terminal to the frame, and...I can't remember the last one. Others have also advised the transmission, spark plugs, and the back of the alternator to the negative terminal.

The main reason I want to do it (with the alternator conversion) is so the heater won't take half an hour to warm up.

[91GMEric]

Could be coolant related issue, thermastat? Heater core? I may be wrong but I did the 3g conversion an Big 3(All batt/alternator an ground are 0g. All I noticed was a huge voltage increase(running 14.4v at idle an no extra batteries. If you need help send me a message, car audio is my thang

[sly]

open thermostat or missing thermostat will do that. As for grounding the alt... it's on some HUGE brackets on the engine. Not an issue. Making the one to the engine larger (no need to go larger than the charge cable though) might be good though. I used 4AWG for my charge cables. Never have changed the battery cables and don't have any issues.

[ootdega]

open thermostat or missing thermostat will do that.

Could be coolant related issue, thermastat? Heater core? I may be wrong but I did the 3g conversion an Big 3(All batt/alternator an ground are 0g. All I noticed was a huge voltage increase(running 14.4v at idle an no extra batteries. If you need help send me a message, car audio is my thang

In that case that's probably what's causing it. I was told the same thing by someone else today.

I'm not really doing it for audio, just trying to make things work better and drag less, but thanks.

As for grounding the alt... it's on some HUGE brackets on the engine. Not an issue. Making the one to the engine larger (no need to go larger than the charge cable though) might be good though. I used 4AWG for my charge cables. Never have changed the battery cables and don't have any issues.

The thing is I don't know where any of these are or how to identify them. That was part of why and what I was asking.

[sly]

the only place you need to look is the negative battery terminal. follow those wires. The skinny one that goes to the radiator support (the body ground) is really the only one you may want to upgrade. The fat one that goes down to the frame and then the engine is pretty good as is. Replace/upgrade if it's really nasty looking. 4AWG is plenty for a 130A alt.

[ootdega]

Awesome. This'll be even easier than I thought then.

Thank you.