Its pretty simple when reusing the stock wiring. All you do is run a line off the battery over to the drivers side fender and plug that into your two relays (I use one for High beam and one for low Beam). Cut your two wire leading to the headlights (Use your EVTM for this) The wires leading to the lights from the cabin get plugged into the trigger spots of the two relays and the other side of the two wires you cut get plugged into the relayed output of the relays. Hook up some ground to your relays and you are done. Look up relays on youtube and everything will become clear. Also drawing schematics help understand how everything works.
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~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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I'm still planning on relaying the parking light feed too as that also runs off the headlamp switch... but it's not the usual suspect for burning fire like the headlamp wires.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Just a mention, but those plastic lamps are probably original equipment. Absolute minimum, buy new headlights.
There have to be pre-made headlight relay harnesses out there for these lights. Its also entirely possible to DIY one that does not cut any factory wiring. I made one for my own car, just because I wanted to be able to unplug it if it failed. Some 5 years later it hasn't been taken out of service, but I still retain the option.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by sly View PostI'm still planning on relaying the parking light feed too as that also runs off the headlamp switch... but it's not the usual suspect for burning fire like the headlamp wires.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Originally posted by sly View Post+1 getting a friend to help with the wiring for the headlight relay mod. that by itself will give better output even with those POS lights.
And all of this is going completely over my head. Even if it didn't, I would have no options whatsoever for doing it myself.Last edited by ootdega; 08-05-2014, 09:05 PM.89 Grand Marquis GS.
Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.
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Look up how relays work. When you understand that it will be easy and the below should make sense.
Just unplug the connector at the headlight. Run a wire from the old hot at the headlight connector to the switch/activation lead on the relay. Run a fused line to the relay hot in. Run two switched hots from the new relay to both new low beam headlight connectors. Run a new ground wire from each connector to a good ground. You are done with low beams.
High beams are similar but just a touch more complex. From the same original low beam connector run the high beam hot to another relay switch lead. Just tape off the old high beam headlight connector and tuck it away. Run another fused hot lead to the new high beam relay hot in terminal. Run four wires out switched hot. Connect them to all four headlight connectors. Run another ground from the high beam headlight connectors and you are done.
When you understand this the wiring can be simplified by sharing ground and hot leads where appropriate.
Like I said first google how relays work then it might all make sense. The whole point of this is to gent power directly from the battery to the headlights without sending it into the switch in the dashboard. Easier on the switch and more juice (less resistance) direct to the lights so they are brighter. Will burn out a bit sooner but that is how you get brighter lights.03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Originally posted by jaywish View PostLook up how relays work. When you understand that it will be easy and the below should make sense.
Just unplug the connector at the headlight. Run a wire from the old hot at the headlight connector to the switch/activation lead on the relay. Run a fused line to the relay hot in. Run two switched hots from the new relay to both new low beam headlight connectors. Run a new ground wire from each connector to a good ground. You are done with low beams.
High beams are similar but just a touch more complex. From the same original low beam connector run the high beam hot to another relay switch lead. Just tape off the old high beam headlight connector and tuck it away. Run another fused hot lead to the new high beam relay hot in terminal. Run four wires out switched hot. Connect them to all four headlight connectors. Run another ground from the high beam headlight connectors and you are done.
When you understand this the wiring can be simplified by sharing ground and hot leads where appropriate.
Like I said first google how relays work then it might all make sense. The whole point of this is to gent power directly from the battery to the headlights without sending it into the switch in the dashboard. Easier on the switch and more juice (less resistance) direct to the lights so they are brighter. Will burn out a bit sooner but that is how you get brighter lights.89 Grand Marquis GS.
Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.
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Originally posted by ootdega View PostThis all went completely over my head but I'll read it again once the lights come up on the priority list. Thanks.
Or look at this simple and easy head light relay thread
Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.
The relay conversion is alot easier than it sounds.
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
George Burns
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Originally posted by BigT View PostDon't let are talking overwhelm you. Look at this picture:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]40537[/ATTACH]
Or look at this simple and easy head light relay thread
Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.
The relay conversion is alot easier than it sounds.89 Grand Marquis GS.
Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.
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