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    #16
    JB Weld Waterweld is some good stuff. It managed to patch the crack in my coolant crossover on my 93 with the PI swap.

    Just gotta clean up the area and give it a little scuff with some light sandpaper. Kneed the putty for a bit and jamb it in the crack something fierce and it should seal it up. You may have to drain some coolant to keep if from wetting the location and preventing the bond, but considering that I did mine with a little leakage going on, I don't think that should be an issue. It does take a while to cure up though.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #17
      A new radiator is about $150. I wouldn't pay more than about 20 bucks to fix a 30 year old radiator. If its developing leaks through the metal in one spot, most of the rest of it is about tissue thin and will start to fail in short order.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        A new radiator is about $150. I wouldn't pay more than about 20 bucks to fix a 30 year old radiator. If its developing leaks through the metal in one spot, most of the rest of it is about tissue thin and will start to fail in short order.
        Good point. Temporary fix at best.

        2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
        mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

        Comment


          #19
          Picked up some plumbers two part epoxy, will kneed it together tomorrow morning after cleaning the entire area. It should work, I did that to my '67 Ford, and the tank never leaked till I junked the car almost 20 yrs later. And the $400 is for a new copper core with the original metal side tanks plus labor.
          Originally posted by sly View Post
          JB Weld Waterweld is some good stuff. It managed to patch the crack in my coolant crossover on my 93 with the PI swap.

          Just gotta clean up the area and give it a little scuff with some light sandpaper. Kneed the putty for a bit and jamb it in the crack something fierce and it should seal it up. You may have to drain some coolant to keep if from wetting the location and preventing the bond, but considering that I did mine with a little leakage going on, I don't think that should be an issue. It does take a while to cure up though.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Toploader View Post
            ... I did that to my '67 Ford, and the tank never leaked till I junked the car almost 20 yrs later. ...
            Now that's the kind of longevity I like to see. I'm wondering if it would be attributable to things being made better in the 'good old days' and/or whether you had a rigorous coolant flush schedule.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

            Comment


              #21
              Spoke with the radiator shop.......to recore my copper/brass radiator in standard two row would be $350, a high efficency 2 row core would be $395........r&r $100.00
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              A new radiator is about $150. I wouldn't pay more than about 20 bucks to fix a 30 year old radiator. If its developing leaks through the metal in one spot, most of the rest of it is about tissue thin and will start to fail in short order.

              Comment


                #22
                Bah... just order up a radiator for a newer model with the aluminum core and plastic tanks. You may need a new top hose for that as well if it's not the same size, but it'll still be much more inexpensive. The hardest part is getting the bolts off the water pump pulley to get the fan off, but it's a pretty easy job after that. Just need a catch pan and more coolant for when you're done.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Sly, b/4 I do anything, I will wait to see what effect the plumbers epoxy has on the upper trans cooler fitting.....if it stops the leak, so much the better, if not, well, I will have to see how much I will invest into a new radiator.......I do like to keep things as OEM as possible.
                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  Bah... just order up a radiator for a newer model with the aluminum core and plastic tanks. You may need a new top hose for that as well if it's not the same size, but it'll still be much more inexpensive. The hardest part is getting the bolts off the water pump pulley to get the fan off, but it's a pretty easy job after that. Just need a catch pan and more coolant for when you're done.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Those prices are far in excess of what I'd pay. It may be a better radiator but they'd have to prove to me that its worth twice what I could get a replacement for.

                    Still not so sure you have the original radiator anyway. All of the ones I've seen after 1985 have come with plastic side tanks and aluminum cores unless it was the police model radiator.


                    don't need to remove the fan either. The shroud will push back and lay on the front of the engine and you can sneak the radiator in. Its kind of a pain in the ass, but it will go. The GM split shroud design was a big win vs the single piece we got.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #25
                      radiators etc

                      ~$g vs High Eff 3 & 4 row 2 page article and pics 4-17-13 Classic[1].doc

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by sly View Post
                        Bah... just order up a radiator for a newer model with the aluminum core and plastic tanks. You may need a new top hose for that as well if it's not the same size, but it'll still be much more inexpensive. The hardest part is getting the bolts off the water pump pulley to get the fan off, but it's a pretty easy job after that. Just need a catch pan and more coolant for when you're done.
                        Yep, I swapped a newer plastic tank into my 85 for a whopping $90. Had to change the lower rubber pads and upper mounts though.



                        Rads on these cars are super easy. I swapped a new rad into the Battle Wagon in a parking lot 10 hours away from home when the rad blew the petcock and all the threads out.
                        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Trust me its brass/copper............I cleaned the area before I used the plumbers epoxy.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Funny you mention shrouds, when the Avanti first came out it had one that completely surrounded the radiator.....then seeing how bad that was, the factory made one that we all call the horse collar
                            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                            Those prices are far in excess of what I'd pay. It may be a better radiator but they'd have to prove to me that its worth twice what I could get a replacement for.

                            Still not so sure you have the original radiator anyway. All of the ones I've seen after 1985 have come with plastic side tanks and aluminum cores unless it was the police model radiator.


                            don't need to remove the fan either. The shroud will push back and lay on the front of the engine and you can sneak the radiator in. Its kind of a pain in the ass, but it will go. The GM split shroud design was a big win vs the single piece we got.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              +1 brain fart... no need to remove fan.

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                              Comment

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