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    I'm New - Hoping Someone Can Help

    Hey guys! Been meaning to join this forum for awhile, but had too many other irons in the fire.

    First about me: I'm almost 60. Live in Missouri and can't wait to move back to Seattle! I very mechanically inclined. For the last ten years I've been into the older BMW e21 320i sedans. I've owned 2 and my current '78 is my pet project. I've rebuilt the engine from the block up in 2006. I pulled all the EGR stuff and drilled tapped and plugged all the ports, and put on a header. 4 years later the oil pump died and I spun a bearing. Since that time I swapped out the 4-speed manual for a 5-speed, replaced the front and rear suspension as well as the control arms and tie rods. I put in an all new sound system with all new wiring. At the moment, I'm just waiting to get the engine bay painted before I drop the engine back in after the 2nd rebuild.

    So as you can see, I know my way around the wrenches pretty well. My failure point, however is electrical issues. They drive me bugchit and I have NO idea about using a voltmeter.

    Story on the car;
    I met my wife in Texas in 2008. She moved here to Missouri to marry me and trailered her 1998 Marquis up here when she moved. She said the car started to overheat and when I asked her about what happened she said that she was told it had a plastic intake and that it had cracked. So, fast forward to 2009.She gets the car here. I found a retrofit kit on Ebay for $200 and she and I replace the intake.Prior to all this she said the car ran fine. Okay, back to the story. So we got that done and then the car won't fire. Turns over but won't start. Come to find out the in-tank fuel pump is shot. So I buy that and get that installed. The wires to the battery are disintegrating near the posts so I replaced those. Our Forrd Ranger needed a battery so we could sell it so the brand new battery went bye-bye. Last year I put $10 of gas in but with no battery to start it, it sat until today.

    Today I go and buy a new battery with 850 cranking amps. The car turns over but won't fire. I turn the ignition off and go reset the switch and all the power drops out when I go to turn the ignition on again. So I'm checking fuses and I find nothing. I have a fat, thick 1998 Crown Vic/Gran d Marquis Service Manual I bought some time ago and it mentions a Powertrain Control Module. The manual says it's in the engine compartment on the passengers side of the dash. I couldn't find it. I pulled all the fuses and put them back one at a time. No change. Then I see something on the drivers side that is a panel with three relays and the panel slides out of this plastic case. I reset those relays. Still no interior light with the door open so I go to try the key again and I have power. I try to start the engine but the second I switch the key to on, the power drops out again.

    So, give me some ideas. First off, where is this PCM the manual talks about? Are there any other relays to be concerned with? Reset switches? Where do I go next with this? As I said before, in 2010 after we replaced the intake the engine cranked just fine. It's sat several years now and I can't seem to keep power. I don't see signs of rodents or mangled wiring.

    Thanks guys and I hope I can get to the bottom of this quickly! I need to have this car running as the Bimmer is months down the road before it's done. I'm disabled and I go to college full time.

    UPDATE: I found a wire that is suspect near the battery terminal. I can get it to turn over now. It acts like it did before, like it's not getting fuel. When you guys turn the ignition to "ON" can you hear the fuel pump engage? Is there a certain sequence I should do when starting when the lines have been empty of fuel?
    Last edited by Bimmerknut; 03-28-2014, 04:14 PM.

    #2
    I thought maybe the fuel pump relay might be bad so I checked that panel that slides out of the cover and there's an ECC cutout, Fuel Pump Relay and something else I can't remember in there. But all three relays are exactly the same part number so I switched them three time in different configurations to see if maybe that was it. It acts like it WANTS to fire just like it did before when I would spray starting fluid in the line it would run. It seems like it's starving for fuel.

    Comment


      #3
      fuel filter?

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        The PCM is the computer. It will crank without a computer. Won't start of course, but the engine will turn over. It actually lives under the dash, up above the parking brake pedal. Its almost never the problem, so I would not be starting with that.



        There is an inertia switch in the trunk that would cause the fuel pump to not operate if its tripped. I think its still mounted to the trunk hinge area, probably on the driver's side. Push the button in and make sure it clicks. If thats good, see if you have power to the thing. It should just be 2 wires, and both should be hot while cranking the engine. If nothing there, check at the fuel pump relay. Theres really nothing between those except for wire. If you have power through the inertia switch, make sure the connection at the tank is clean and all that.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

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        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          You said all the power drops out when you turn the key?
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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jaywish View Post
            You said all the power drops out when you turn the key?
            That was previously, before I found the compromised wire to the positive battery terminal. It cranks fine now.
            I've checked the trip box in the trunk, checked the fuse just inside the drivers floor area and if you read my post, I swapped around all three relays that are where the fuel pump relay is since they're all the same part number. The only issue I have is firing now.

            Comment


              #7
              Do you have correct fuel pressure?
              03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
              02 SL500 Silver Arrow
              08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
              12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

              Comment


                #8
                if the fuel filter is clogged with crap... it won't let fuel through to be able to start the thing. If you don't know if/when it's been changed, change that too.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  if the fuel filter is clogged with crap... it won't let fuel through to be able to start the thing. If you don't know if/when it's been changed, change that too.
                  Sorry Jay, I forgot to respond. The fuel filter is brand new.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                    Do you have correct fuel pressure?
                    That's a very good question. Is there a way to check that without special tools?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yup - turn on the key, find the pressure test valve in the fuel rail, and press the valve in. You should at least get enough fuel spraying out to make you want to release it!
                      A fuel pressure test kit isn't too pricey - the cheap-o ones work fine if you rarely use it.

                      You definitely should hear an audible buzz/whine sound coming from the tank if the pump is working (or trying to work) when you turn on the key. If you suspect the pump is dead, you can try pounding lightly on the tank with a large soft-blow hammer or similar object (a shoe works good). Sometimes this brings them back to life for a bit.
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                      Comment


                        #12
                        As mentioned, check for fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve. If you have pressure at the valve, then its probably electrical. The crankshaft position sensor can sometimes fail, also check all your fuses again, especially the green 30 amp PCM fuse.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post
                          Yup - turn on the key, find the pressure test valve in the fuel rail, and press the valve in. You should at least get enough fuel spraying out to make you want to release it!
                          A fuel pressure test kit isn't too pricey - the cheap-o ones work fine if you rarely use it.

                          You definitely should hear an audible buzz/whine sound coming from the tank if the pump is working (or trying to work) when you turn on the key. If you suspect the pump is dead, you can try pounding lightly on the tank with a large soft-blow hammer or similar object (a shoe works good). Sometimes this brings them back to life for a bit.
                          Fuel pump should work, it's brand new. I'll have to go listen while the wife turns the key. One of the tone alarms sound when the ignition is turned to ON so I can't hear a thing. Thanks man!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Louis View Post
                            As mentioned, check for fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve. If you have pressure at the valve, then its probably electrical. The crankshaft position sensor can sometimes fail, also check all your fuses again, especially the green 30 amp PCM fuse.
                            Thanks for the Schrader valve tip, Louis! I hope it's something simple!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Okay fuel to the rail is NOT the issue now. I just checked using the wife to turn the ignition on. I hear the pump just fine and the Schrader valve shot fuel up with a lot of velocity so getting fuel doesn't seem to be the issue.
                              What else should I be looking at? How do I test for spark on this car?.....I'm old school. My Bimmer still has points even though it's fuel injected.

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