Been fiddling with the horn on the Merc Wagon trying to figure out when they don't work. I checked the blue wire that goes to the horn from the relay and I have continuity. I have power to both sides of the fuse in the fuse box, and I have power to 1 of the 2 larger horn relay wires. Tried a new horn as well as the old one also. I tried swapping relays from the fuel pump relay (which works) and still no go. Starting to suspect something in the clockspring/steering column. Any idears?
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1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph. -
Did you pull the horn pad off and have a look? You could have dirty contacts or rouge fluff interference.
I'm not sure how the clock-spring works on ours exactly, but most non-airbag ones are just a spring loaded plunger contact riding around a copper ring, both can get dirty/corroded.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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I did pull it off, but it looked clean and un-tampered with in there. I guess I will check that metal plunger maybe it's not making contact?Originally posted by 85crownHPP View Post1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Comment
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have you powered the horn itself directly to make sure it even works? Does the relay click when you hit the horn button, or no? How about if you ground whichever wire feeds from the horn relay into the horn button?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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just tried to power the horn directly, and it got so hot in 2 seconds that it melted the sheathing off the wire i was holding YOWCH! No sound either of course...Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
also tried the new horn that someone replaced the old one with, and no sound either from that one. Starting to suspect the circuit it burning them up. Going to post a picture of my horn relay wiring, it looks off to me.Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 01-05-2014, 05:47 PM.1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Comment
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my guess would be that you've got a dead horn and probably the fuse link that feeds power to that circuit is toast then. Not much to a horn, it grounds through the bracket and you feed it +12v. If that doesn't make it honk, its dead. They do pull a fair bit of power but nothing that should make wire thicker than 20ga melt.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I've never seen anything like it, that wire got so hot so fast it and started smoking and boiled the sheathing XDOriginally posted by gadget73 View Post
yep, just double checked and I have no power to the horn relay at all. I do have power to horn fuse 17 in the fuse box. Both the old horn and new horn are bad, new horn has no continuity between terminals at all, and the driver's side horn is M.I.A. with the blue wire taped up... all the relay connectors are missing their red-cover-keepers as well, so I know someone has been tinkering in there.
Where is that fusible link that feeds power to the circuit?1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Comment
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Its one of the ones over there by the starter relay. No idea which it is, but I'd wager if one is melted, that'll be it.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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The fusible links look fine, but I will check them with an ohmmeter anyway. I found a diagram though. Since I have power at the 17 fuse, but not at the Y/LB wire at the relay connector, there must be a break in there somewhere in the harness. I'll check up under the dashboard next time I get a chance.
1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Comment
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Could either be a bad relay or a break in the wire someplace. If you suspect the relay you can swap it out with another relay like fuel pump or whatever is similar and see if the horn works or if the circuit you took the relay from works. I've done that dozens of times with other vehicles by swapping out the fuel pump relay with the bad suspected relay. When the fuel pump didn't work then I knew I had a bad relay.
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