Since my car seems to be having oil pressure issues, I was wondering if I'd be able to easily wire up an electric oil pressure gauge. I have an extra Auto Meter 3327 gauge and there's an Auto Meter 2422 sender that I could cannibalize off my other car if it'd fit. I know on 4.6s, there's a place right on the oil filter adapter that an electrical sender can screw into. Is there anything like that on a 5.0? If so, where exactly is it? (Pictures would be helpful) If not, what is my best option?
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Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge on a 1985 5.0?
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I know on my 1896 Mercury Grand Marquis LS there's only the one port for the existing oil pressure sending unit (5.8L 351 Windsor). I'm getting my oil gauge hooked up before September is out, and he told me that he'd have to "plumb" in the oil line to the existing sender unit if I wanted to keep my Engine light connected to the sender...
Dunno if that helps any.
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That does help. It's beginning to come to my understanding that the check engine light on a 1985 is similar to the oil pressure gauge in a 92+, in that it's an on/off switch that triggers when oil pressure is below 6psi and doesn't do much else. If the check engine light on an 85 doesn't have any functions other than that, then I'm fine with disconnecting it.1985 2 door LTD 127k miles, Dodge Charger 18" police wheels.
2003 P71, 100k, 5.4L engine, eaton m112, other stuff.
Sold: 2003 P71, 2002 P71, 1996 Town Car
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Since I haven't checked yet, are there any space issues getting a sender in there?
I know on my '05 CVPI I T'd off the oil pressure port to get the sending unit in there with the stock one and there was very little room with the oil cooler lines in there.
Then I figured out that the car doesn't care to see the signal from the stock sender(the PCM apparently doesn't monitor oil pressure) if you're not using stock gauges.1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker
2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...
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Just find an oil pressure sender and extension adaptor from a 5.0 mustang. Should work
1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)
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Originally posted by BlackVic_P71 View PostSince I haven't checked yet, are there any space issues getting a sender in there?
I know on my '05 CVPI I T'd off the oil pressure port to get the sending unit in there with the stock one and there was very little room with the oil cooler lines in there.
Then I figured out that the car doesn't care to see the signal from the stock sender(the PCM apparently doesn't monitor oil pressure) if you're not using stock gauges.
If it's the case that 85 has a "fake" sender like all the newer panthers do, then I assume I can do the exact same thing and just swap the old sender out for this and wire it to a gauge.1985 2 door LTD 127k miles, Dodge Charger 18" police wheels.
2003 P71, 100k, 5.4L engine, eaton m112, other stuff.
Sold: 2003 P71, 2002 P71, 1996 Town Car
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1985 2 door LTD 127k miles, Dodge Charger 18" police wheels.
2003 P71, 100k, 5.4L engine, eaton m112, other stuff.
Sold: 2003 P71, 2002 P71, 1996 Town Car
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I will be adding one to my 85 soon, I tried the other day but it seems I may need to remove the oil filter to get a socket on the old sending unit, so it seems it will have to wait until next oil change. But if you are keeping the dummy light then you will need a t fitting.1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.
2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!
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Originally posted by Billy View PostThat does help. It's beginning to come to my understanding that the check engine light on a 1985 is similar to the oil pressure gauge in a 92+, in that it's an on/off switch that triggers when oil pressure is below 6psi and doesn't do much else. If the check engine light on an 85 doesn't have any functions other than that, then I'm fine with disconnecting it.
- low oil pressure
- high engine temperature
The only other time it should ever come on is during a bulb check or when the car is turned on with the engine turned off. Both reasons are fairly catastrophic.
That being said, I told my mechanic I didn't care if the engine light was disconnected. He pointed out to me that I might not notice the gauge dip down to under, say, 10psi in time to turn the engine off to prevent damage, but the Engine light coming on would grab my attention immediately...
Something to consider.
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You will need to remove the idiot light sensor located next to the oil filter. Funky sized socket will be needed.
You will need to get a hand on either a truck or mustang oil pressure extension tube(adapter). I have for sale or you can purchase from ebay.
Put the extension in the block and put your sender right at the end of it and all will be well. Just simply run a sender wire from the sender to your gauge for its signal.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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The only port really is where the factory dummy sensor goes in. I simply deleted it on my 89 (and soon will on my 91), but I also always keep an eye on my gauges. You will need to move the new sending unit out for room. I had a factory extension piece laying around from some random engine. Best bet for one will be some 5.0/5.8 F150 in the junkyard. Or you can always just use some copper pipe fittings to make it work.
If you use a factory piece, it ends up looking like this:
And the factory dummy sender you will be deleting.
2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP
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That's perfect Zach. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a million!
How does the extension piece attach exactly? I might try to find one of those.1985 2 door LTD 127k miles, Dodge Charger 18" police wheels.
2003 P71, 100k, 5.4L engine, eaton m112, other stuff.
Sold: 2003 P71, 2002 P71, 1996 Town Car
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Just threads into place.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Ah, that's my old thread... the pics were on Cardomain, they must have moved stuff around. I'll see if I can fix...
edit - blah, those pics sucked. time to get new ones!
Zach, may i use one of yours?
Everyone feel free to put pics of their gauge senders (original and replacement, temperature and oil psi, and any other hook-up for other gauges work too) here if you have some good ones. Pics of the actual gauges are not necessary. I'll collect them for use in a dedicated local web page that I'll probably never make, as part of the box panther resource I've been working on and will probably never finish. I should at least put up what's there so far...
To Billy:
Go ahead and get a temperature and volt gauge too
A few of us have had copper fittings break when used as an oil adapter... definitely use the F150 adapter. I can get you one if need be!Last edited by 85crownHPP; 09-23-2013, 10:05 PM.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostZach, may i use one of yours?
The F150/Mustang extension pieces are really nice. Easy to thread in and tighten, and it puts the sender at a nice angle too. Any other idea of what car's (if any) came with them? Also something new to be looking for on a trip to the JY...2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP
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