anyone know the size of the bolts for window motors to Regulator?
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7mm if'n I remember right. If I may ask, why? And if it is an original window motor you will need a 1/2" drill bit as well.
Alex. -
want to get stainless steel onesComment
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Don't. =-) The cad plated factory hardware is durable. Stainless you need to slop on the antiseize or face a stuck bolt down the road (just something more to get you dirty). Stainless is overrated and shouldn't be used as a general fastener unless the environment it is in dictates its need.
Alex.Comment
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Never had an issue with the factory bolts and have done a lot of them....Bobby
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"Comment
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^ThisOriginally posted by miamibob View Post
Although I did flip through my shop manual to see if the bolt size was listed, but came up empty handed.Vic
~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"Comment
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they're machine screws for boxes but I have no clue what the thread is.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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Just opened up one of mine (driver's door motor running but not operating the window). Three machine bolts on my box are 5/16". Someone (NC Highway Patrol mechanic) had already replace mine once and drilled the holes for me!Comment
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motor running but not moving anything... the gear bushings under the large cover on the motor are the issue. You can replace with DORMAN part that's in the help section of most auto parts stores or use 7/16 ball bearings. The bearings will ensure you won't have this problem again, but they also allow crushing of fingers. The bearings are way cheaper too. Any decent hardware store (not home repair store... some place with loose nails/bolts/etc on the shelves lice Ace Hardware.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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Went to AutoZone and picked up the Dorman part 74410 (three nylon/plastic bushings). NO DAMN way these fit inside the plastic gear that meshes with the worm gear. Got everything cleaned out and paid 7.99 + tax for these and they don't work. Guess I'll be looking for some 7/16ths ball bearings.....Wonder if some .45 bullets would work? LOL! Like I said, my car had already had a replacement unit on it (FORD Part E3AF-14553-A2A made by United Technologies Electro Systems).Comment
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They can be a real bitch to replace. But some persistence and they can fit in there but definitely a PITA.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Unfortunately I have an issue... The driver's bolts have backed out a enough to make it "pop" when it bottoms out on top or bottom when rolling up or down. Retightened them, but it started popping again a month later. Going to try some thread lock to see if it will help keep them in place.Originally posted by miamibob View Post
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
George BurnsComment
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Don't think so in this case. The Dorman bushings are so large that only one can be inserted only part way. This also skews the internals so much that you can't push it down let alone get the other two in place. I inserted a .452 lead ball in there and it looks about right. I believe the PWM I have (E3AF-14553-A2A) might be a rebuilt part from Ford. As such, the internals look different than the picture on the Dorman package and the thread "Popping window fix". Sorry, this thread was for bolt sizes and not window motor rebuilds!Comment
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Sorry for the poor description on my part. The popping is not coming for the gears inside the window motor. It’s coming from the entire window motor moving back and forth popping in and out of gear. The mounting bolts had backed off just enough to let the entire motor to move.
I installed a new motor a year ago, over tightened and stripped the bolts a little. I was hoping they were tight enough to hold, but I guess not.
I took off the door panel and can see the lower sheet metal moving as it rocks back and forth. It does just fine going up and down. When it reaches the ends (top or bottom) more pressure is placed on the motor and it moves just enough to move out of place.
I hope thread lock will hold it. If not, it’s got a life time warranty from O’ Reilly’s and will have to replace it again.
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I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
George BurnsComment
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Yeah, well I went off on a tangent, this thread wanted to know what the bolt size was, and I only commented on the "head size" (not the dia or thread or length). You can get a bit upset while working on this stuff !! After all, now they are 20+ years old. Good luck with the lock-tite. I found all sorts of stripped stuff in mine b/c a butcher with Popeye arms size put mine back together the first time.Comment
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