If you have the luxury of more than one auto parts store in your area, go and get second and third opinions. I've had stores tell me that I had a defective alternator that later turned out to be just fine.
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1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles -
So today this morning on my way to work my Dash lights and tail lights shorted out and went dark turns out the headlight switch connection in the back is loose so for now i zip tied it tighter so it doesn't wiggle around, also i wasnt aware that my car had a beeping noise like the beep when you open a car door or put the key in until it was beeping when I was playing with the wires. Went to Les Schwab they tested battery and alt and said everything was 100 % good . But now my check engine light is coming on when I accelerate until it changes gears then it goes off and its only sometimes not every time. HMMMMM...
and that still doesn't explain the dead battery symptoms in the 1 degree mornings. Starter maybe? Im lost...Last edited by Deezy; 01-14-2013, 09:11 PM.Comment
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Good thing that your alternator and battery are still good. Whatever was causing the drain will cost much less than either of those items. How does the engine behave while idling? Accelerating? That will tell you if the Check Engine Light is either a loose wire or something more. It could even just be an evap leak, but you'd know it because you would smell fuel vapors. My sister's Stratus has a CEL for an evap leak and it drives just fine otherwise. Even forgetting to tighten the gas cap or having a really old one could trigger the light.Last edited by L1011tristar17; 01-14-2013, 09:20 PM.
1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k milesComment
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the car idles perfect sounds perfect the light started after the lights shorted out this morningComment
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check codes for the check engine light. see what's stored. If it's the RED engine light... check the oil level. That one only lights if the oil pressure is gone or the car has overheated.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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It comes on when the engine as cold , then after a bit it fades and only comes on when I accelerate now, Then its off ompletely. Will auto zone check an 88 GM comp for free?Comment
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I guess it depends on if AutoZone has an OBD I scanner. It's possible they may have only an OBD II scanner (what most newer cars use). If you can't find a place that has one, I believe there is a method to jump the diagnostic terminals on the car by using a paper clip. I've never tried it before, but doing it will flash the codes through the CEL.
1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k milesComment
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most o,reillys use a scanner that is obd1 compatabile.......you may have to do it yourself however,because not everyone knows that obd1 fords have 2 tests (KOEO & KOER)Comment
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Ok i gave the battery a good charge instead of a weake trickle charge and it seemed to solve the problem. Now ANOTHER problem. The engine is knocking . Oil is good everything is good IM GETTING SO irritated it is literally a new thing every day . It wasn't knocking until today early morning. Its knocks on idle and it knocks louder/fasterr as i accelerate. Is it time to junk it?Comment
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depends on which knock. if it's the low pitch very stout knock... might be time for a new engine... but these have been known to go for many thousand more miles after the knocking starts. If it's the higher pitched clatter... ignore it. My 88 has done that since I bought it. Put 34K miles on it so far and it hasn't changed at all.
It may just be a good time to start saving for another vehicle and drive this one until it really does die. Then scrap it and go get another one.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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No way it needs a new engine only has 70k and it sounds beautiful its not like bang bang bang per say lol more like tick tick tick but its hard to locate on such a huge engine compartment gotta damn near clime in the hood lolComment
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the tick tick tick could just be the PCV valve working. if it's the replacement metal type, they can do that. ignore it.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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could just be an exhaust leak...my Lincoln has a minor crack in the downpipe off the exhaust manifold......and under medium to hard exceleration it ticks like a timex.......it can be annoying...but 150.00 for a downpipe/catalytic converter....I can live with the ticking....lolOriginally posted by Deezy View PostComment
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Its rod knock parting out car if it doesnt sell in the next week I posted a thread in for sale, Oil pump went bad and caused it.Comment
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It is the redComment
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