multi-switch / headlight problem

[bluemonster]

1990 (mfg date 11/89) Mercury Grand Marquis, 5L, MFI, loaded

Cut to the chase: what is the correct multi-switch (dimmer) for this vehicle? O-Reilly's says (and gave me) a BWD #S3217. I think it is wrong. Now the story:

About a year ago the brights began going out (all lights out). Switching to dims brought them back. Thinking it was the multi-switch, I bought another. A previous vehicle ('79 Toro) had a similar problem that turned out to be the multi-switch partially melting. As it was near the end of winter and I had little time, I put the switch in the trunk and drove on dims. Friday, on the way home for Christmas weekend (of course) the lights started going off entirely. Fiddling with multi-switch got me home. I could hear a clicking behind the dash as they turned on and off. I have since read that the problem may be the headlight switch (WAH). The wah is because I replaced the multi-switch and disassembled the old one to diagnose problem. All I found was some carbon blacking on the contacts. This switch is built much better than the Toro switch. I see no evidence of plastic melting.

Anyway, problem now is that I now have daytime running lights (didn't before), and the battery drains overnight. Disconnecting the battery and putting an ammeter in series, I get a 1 amp drain with doors shut, no key in ignition, trunk shut, and hood bulb unplugged. Oh yeah, when I say I have daytime running lights, it doesn't matter whether the headlight switch is pushed in or pulled out (yes, old style) the lights come on as soon as the key is turned and will not turn off (key out, waited over a minute) until the battery is disconnected (stay off after battery re-connected until key turned on). The only thing I have done during this project has been to remove the old switch and replace it with the new.

I suspect I was given the wrong switch (ya think). I am thinking about getting a battery cutout switch tomorrow so I can drive to work (30 miles each way) and not have battery drain down while at work, but am concerned that the incorrect switch may cause other problems.

HELP!!!

Really, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Roy

[86VickyLX]

Do you have autolamps? There's a knob behind the headlight pull switch that controls the delay. Turn it all the way to the left. See if you have 'daytime running lights' then. I believe daytime running lights was an option in those years, in canada...

[bluemonster]

Do you have autolamps? There's a knob behind the headlight pull switch that controls the delay. Turn it all the way to the left. See if you have 'daytime running lights' then. I believe daytime running lights was an option in those years, in canada...

I'll check that, never knew it was there. Will also check the user manual (I am just the second owner). Still doesn't answer the 1 amp drain that wasn't there before. Still wondering if wrong dimmer switch. Is it possble that the bad headlight switch is caising the drain?

Thanks for the quick reply.

Roy

[1990LTD]

the autolamp knob/ring behind the push/pull knob for the headlights and interior brightness turns all the way to the left and makes a slight "click" when it is turned off.


as for the drain - watch your ammeter and pull/replace fuses until your drain goes away. you've narrowed it down to a circuit now it's just a matter of figuring out what is causing the drain.

[marquisman]

Daytime running lights was standard, starting on 1990 model years. Not very nessassary.

[gadget73]

it was only standard in Canadia though. we didn't get that here. Wasn't even an option that I'm aware of.

[marquisman]

I forgot that part. Panthers destined for the U.S, were luckly spared.

[bluemonster]

Update:

I have Autolights, but I know the original owner and it was bought in the US. Yes, turning it to the left got rid of the lights comming on and staying on. Still have the 1 amp drain (now 1.5). I am going to pull the fuses for the lights first as the lights going out started the whole thing.

Roy

[bluemonster]

New update:

Did the 'pull the fuses' thing. Turns out the battery drain has nothing to do with the headlights. WTF? Is it possible that the battery drained overnight for some other reason? Would a 2 amp draw (actually 1.85) normally drain a good battery overnight? The following was done with the key off and out, the negative battery cable disconnected, and an ammeter in series between the negative battery terminal and the end of the negative cable.

Pulling the fuses showed that:
0.2 amps were going to fuse #16 - Yellow - 20 amp
- Front cig lighter
- Horn
1.6 amps were going to Fuse #8 - Blue - 20 Amp
-courtesy lamps
-chime for keys in ignition
-chime for headlamps on
-clock
-illuminated entry module
-visor mirror lamps (also 2 amp fuse in visor)
-outside power mirrors
-dome lamp
-heated windshield
-glove box lamp
-engine compartment lamp
-luggage compartment lamp

Any ideas what to check first? Current plan is to replace headlight switch and pull the fuse whenever I am stopped for any length of time.

Thanks.

Roy

[01Townie]

1.6 amps were going to Fuse #8 - Blue - 20 Amp
-courtesy lamps
-chime for keys in ignition
-chime for headlamps on
-clock
-illuminated entry module
-visor mirror lamps (also 2 amp fuse in visor)
-outside power mirrors
-dome lamp
-heated windshield
-glove box lamp
-engine compartment lamp
-luggage compartment lamp

Any ideas what to check first?

engine compartment lamp, luggagle lamp, and glove box lamp. those are the 3 most common problems. probably check the mirror lamps as well.

also make sure you dont have anything plugged into the cig lighter, thatll draw current as well

[bluemonster]

Thanks 01Townie. Other than unplugging the connector, how would I test those (the engine lamp is unplugged)?

[bluemonster]

01Townie,

Forgot to ask:
- Should a 1.85 amp draw drain a good battery overnight?
- If I need to go to work before I can figure out the drain problem, will it hurt anything to just pull that fuse when I am parked for any significant length of time?

Thanks.

Roy

[01Townie]

no problem. if you have a video camera or one on your phone, put it under the hood and set it to record and plug the light back in and close the hood, thatll show if its staying on, or put your leads of your meter on the contacts and close the hood to see if theres voltage (would need long leads though). same with the glove box and trunk (unless you wanna lock yourself in the trunk and trust a friend to let you out)
a 1.85 amp draw would most likely drain your battery after a few hours, so it probably would drain your battery.
pulling the fuse wont hurt anything, itll just reset your clock when you put it back in if its digital.

[86VickyLX]

I've also seen issues with the illuminated entry module timer crapping out, keeping the interior lights on until the key was turned to the run or accessory position.

[bluemonster]

Thanks, all. Sounds like I have a lot of fun ahead.

Back to the headlights - I have read about a 'headlight relay' fix to remove most of the current from the switch. Can anyone point me to a 'how to'?

Roy