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fuel system can-o-worms

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    #1

    fuel system can-o-worms

    Long story short. Dropped the fuel tank on my 1987 MGM 2 door to change pump. The outside of the tank looked decent, small amount of surface rust but nothing major. I thought I was home free until I opened the tank and found almost solid flaky rust through out. Tried some diy tank cleaning. No dice! Getting tank dipped in my area was more expensive then buying one from Rockauto. The fuel pump and fuel level sender are two separate units. I can find all the gaskets I need. The sending unit float disintegrated and the rest of it is very corroded. Can not find any replacement unit. As far as the fuel pump, is there any paint or coating that I can use on the fuel pump holder to keep it from corroding any further after I have cleaned it.
    Thanks for any input.
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    #2
    i would buy a new pump and hanger assembly.......also check local for the gas tank, the shipping is a killer.....i get tanks cheaper locally......around here if a steel fuel tank needs to come out, it usually gets a brand new tank.
    the fuel float is still available from ford, it's a 1960's part number

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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      #3
      I wish I had got the hanger with a new pump but bought pump already. Is the float just the float or the whole sending unit? If it is just the float, how do I test the rest of the unit to make sure that it is working? Any part number on the float?

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        #4
        float is just a float: works as a fix if the float disintegrated (or got a pinhole and sank). Dunno the part number: ford parts' website is usually pretty good. fordparts.com
        The rest of it is good if you think the gauge was reading right! ...well, of course you can't know, since it was probably reading just empty all the time if the float fell apart and sank. Dumb point on my end. You'll want to know if the sending unit is good, apart from the sunken float.

        Next step is to find an electrical manual, which will give at least 2 resistance values (full and empty), then hook up an ohmeter across the terminals, and move the float arm back and forth and see that you have an even sweep and the correct resistances at the end points.

        Also of course good to know that the mounting bracket is in one piece and not made of rust. If it is, track down a sending unit. I had a bear of a time finding a sending unit for my wagon, but it's a 1990 wagon. Yours might be easier.

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          #5
          The float in the 89 and down ones are a brass cylinder looking thing that attaches to the lever at the end of the sending unit. They normally get a hole and eventually sink to the bottom and stay there.

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