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    What Did I Do???

    I was working on replacing my heater core, here is the forum for that problem:

    Everything to do with interior and body electrical including headlights and tail lights. CFI specific discussions and AC/heating systems.


    I took apart the dash to include removing the cluster panel. I started the car off and on while fixing the vent doors in the plenum. I had the car doors open for long periods while working on the heater core and dash. Well I noticed that the windows were getting slower going up and down from the dome lights burning. So I ran the car for awhile so the alternator would recharge the battery. It got worse. I pulled out the volt meter and its only charging at 11.5 and dropping.

    So today I replaced the old alternator (life time warranty) with a new one. They did not check the old one to see if it was working, They took my word that it was only charging at 11 volts. I put a charger on the battery while I went to O'Reillys.

    I put the new alternator in and the same thing. Now its 11.77 volts and dropping. When I 1st did the 3G upgrade it was around 14 volts.

    So I know I did something. Does the dash cluster panel need to be installed to complete a circuit? (Its still off). Is there something under the dash I might have disconnected by mistake causing this?

    Other than the no charging, the car runs fine. I had arched things in the past with my truck and it was always the distributor module I would fry. I would think that would have fried before the alternator.

    Any help would be appreciated!

    (Called the parts store for them to test the old alternator, they'll get back later with the results)


    sigpic

    I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
    George Burns

    #2
    As far as I know, the "AMP" light needs to be connected in order for the alternator to be charging (completes the curcuit). Try plugging in the instrument cluster and I bet all will be fine.
    2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
    2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black)
    Past Panthers
    1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)

    Originally posted by Lincolnmania
    if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks! I hope your right!


      sigpic

      I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
      George Burns

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by BigT View Post
        Thanks! I hope your right!
        He is, instrument cluster needs to hooked up for the alt to work.
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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          #5
          Whenever you work on your car like this you need to unhook the battery.
          Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
          Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

          Comment


            #6
            Your alternator won't charge at all with no bulb in the circuit. Should be fine once the cluster is installed again.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              you had car doors open, any light that are illuminated will help drain a battery
              89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

              Comment


                #8
                x3
                gotta have the instrument cluster installed or the battery will not charge

                1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
                  x3
                  gotta have the instrument cluster installed or the battery will not charge
                  +1 This.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It's good to hear I need the instrument cluster in for the charging to work. I was getting a little stressed that I pulled a wire by accident and would take me a forever to figure out where. I'm waiting for LED lights I ordered before putting back in the cluster. I will give a status update after the cluster is installed. Thanks again for easing my mind!


                    sigpic

                    I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
                    George Burns

                    Comment


                      #11
                      just don't change the battery lamp to an LED. it probably won't kick the charging circuit on.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It won't. Besides the resistance, the amp light needs to be able to operate bi-directionally. (depending on operating mode, and failure mode).

                        Alex.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Unless you have my bastardly wired 89 who's entire AMP light section is missing yet the alt works fine.
                          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If the bulb is blown will it still charge?
                            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                            2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Now you tell me! I just got the LED bulbs in yesterday and plan to install them today. Since I have everything this far apart, I'll try it with both LED and regular bulb. BTW, I have a heck of a time getting the speedometer off (may have broke the plastic), is there an easy way for that to come off? I hope It's not damaged enough to reuse.


                              sigpic

                              I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
                              George Burns

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