Another CFI to SEFI thread

[fmansfield444]

Wet to the junkyard and grabbed a tv lever from a 91 GM. It was like the one 85CrownHPP has. It works great. The selector lever on the 90-91 cable driven cars is taller like my car's so the tv lever fits perfectly. It shifts now and all is good. It seems to shift a bit later than it used to though and sometimes the transmission seems to hold the car back when I'm off the gas.

Can the tv cable be adjusted like the tv rod can? I'm shifting to second at about 18-20 used to be around 15-18.

Also anyone know what this connector goes to, it's connected to the ECM harness near the waterneck and goes over near the alternator or ac compressor.




I also got the speed hooked up and now I only need the oxygen sensors, and an airbox.

I still only get the codes for the neutral safety and the canister purge solenoid.

[gadget73]

yes, its adjustable. if you're using the 87-91 style cable, you pull the block out of the bushing on the throttle lever, and push the button that releases the block from the cable itself. I think its a white block looking arrangement. It pushes one way or the other. I forget offhand but its reasonably obvious once you're looking at it. To lower the TV pressure, move the block towards the end of the cable. To increase, move it towards the cable bracket. Sounds like you need a CH less.

[86VickyLX]

Wet to the junkyard and grabbed a tv lever from a 91 GM. It was like the one 85CrownHPP has. It works great. The selector lever on the 90-91 cable driven cars is taller like my car's so the tv lever fits perfectly. It shifts now and all is good. It seems to shift a bit later than it used to though and sometimes the transmission seems to hold the car back when I'm off the gas.

Can the tv cable be adjusted like the tv rod can? I'm shifting to second at about 18-20 used to be around 15-18.

Also anyone know what this connector goes to, it's connected to the ECM harness near the waterneck and goes over near the alternator or ac compressor.

[ATTACH]34112[/ATTACH]


I also got the speed hooked up and now I only need the oxygen sensors, and an airbox.

I still only get the codes for the neutral safety and the canister purge solenoid.

What year harness? could be ac clutch connector...

[sly]

Wet to the junkyard and grabbed a tv lever from a 91 GM. It was like the one 85CrownHPP has. It works great. The selector lever on the 90-91 cable driven cars is taller like my car's so the tv lever fits perfectly. It shifts now and all is good. It seems to shift a bit later than it used to though and sometimes the transmission seems to hold the car back when I'm off the gas.

Can the tv cable be adjusted like the tv rod can? I'm shifting to second at about 18-20 used to be around 15-18.

Also anyone know what this connector goes to, it's connected to the ECM harness near the waterneck and goes over near the alternator or ac compressor.

[ATTACH]34112[/ATTACH]


I also got the speed hooked up and now I only need the oxygen sensors, and an airbox.

I still only get the codes for the neutral safety and the canister purge solenoid.

firmer/later shifts are actually a good thing (though you don't want it stupid later like as if you had the pedal to the floor) and slowing the car when you let off the gas is good too. but you can adjust that stuff to make it shift earlier (the way it did before) if you want.

my 88 will kick a bit with each shift (especially OD - mule like even on this one). WOT shifts are smooth. What you don't want is WOT shifts that are longer than a quarter of a second because you'll have slippage. You want those to be smooth and engaging or firm. Mine would probabyl feel firm if I had an HO engine in front of my trans... but the lopo doesn't have the power to hammer the gears much.

[85crownHPP]

Hmmm... yeah I never installed the 'correct' lever on mine, just harvested it from the junkyard, lol. The 90-91 one worked and I had it adjusted well, so I left it. I wonder what FatNasty used...
Mine will kick the selector from park to reverse if you press the gas more than halfway in park... could be bad news if you are revving it up to listen to the exhaust...

[fmansfield444]

Yeah mine hits in park too but in drive it's clear. It seems good though.

I still have an idling hesitation problem. The car will drive fine when warm but hesitates and dies when idling when it's the first start of the day.

After it warms it is fine though.

I'm gonna test the throttle sensor and maybe swap iac's. I think i got the timing right but it may be a little off.

Anything else that can effect idling, hesitation on the first start or if it's cold?

[86VickyLX]

Did you set TPS, idle screw and timing to what I told you to earlier in this thread?

[fmansfield444]

I did the timing and the idle screw was fine. The screw is barely touching the plate like you said.

However I'm not not sure how to set the tps. Does it turn or something? I just see the two screws on it. And I can test it I don't have any dead spots.

[86VickyLX]

I did the timing and the idle screw was fine. The screw is barely touching the plate like you said.

However I'm not not sure how to set the tps. Does it turn or something? I just see the two screws on it. And I can test it I don't have any dead spots.

If you look closely at the TPS, you will see that one of the holes where the screw goes in is oval. This allows a slight adjustment to the voltage from the TPS. To adjust this, turn the key to run, but with the engine off. Hook a digital volt meter positive lead up to the green wire on the TPS, with it hooked up to the computer harness. Put the negative lead to ground. Check to see if you have the voltage set around 0.900 volts. This will give you the best throttle response, and the idle will be properly controlled. If you can't get it to .9 volts. Get it as close as possible. The cutoff for the computer's idle adjustment is 1.1 or 1.2 volts. so 0.895-1.0 volts is your window.

[fmansfield444]

I see what you mean. You can just nudge it a little bit. I set it at .902 so it's pretty close. Before I messed with it it was at .77 so I guess it really needed it.

It runs a little better now but it was warmed up a little before I adjusted the tps.

It idled poorly when cold with the CFI too, and the only sensor I am still using from the CFI is the map sensor. Could the map affect the idle when the engines cold?

The map controls the air to fuel ratio doesn't it? And a colder engine needs to run richer correct? If I'm right that's why I think it could be the map, plus its the only remaining sensor. Any way to test that or just swap it and see what happens?

Thanks for the info on the tps though that did help get it a little healthier.

[gadget73]

MAPs basically work or they don't most of the time. Its an engine load sensor of sort, and the ECM uses output from that to figure out the fuel mix. Usually when they go bad, the engine runs horribly rich and wants to stall and do other obnoxious things.

You're not using either of the CFI temperature sensors are you? There is a coolant temp, an air temp, and actually a gauge sender as well. The gauge one doesn't interface with the ECM at all but both of the other two do, and have something to do with cold start behavior.

[fmansfield444]

Nope they are from the donor 88 Vic. The one by the waterneck and two under egr near fuel rail. But if they effect cold start behavior maybe one of those are bad. You mentioned earlier that they don't always give codes when bad correct?

Anyone know how much vacuum I should be pulling if I were to hook a gauge to the intake with it running?

[gadget73]

more than 17", and higher is better.

they could be reporting improperly. if you've got a voltmeter its pretty easy to confirm they aren't shot though.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28

http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

basically just backprobe the connector and measure from that to ground. One wire should be 5 volts, the other is the sensor output. Key needs to be on for this, or you could pop the plug out and read the resistance in ohms.

Keep in mind with the air temp sensor that it reads air temp in the lower manifold. it will be hotter than outside if the engine has been run.

[86VickyLX]

Nope they are from the donor 88 Vic. The one by the waterneck and two under egr near fuel rail. But if they effect cold start behavior maybe one of those are bad. You mentioned earlier that they don't always give codes when bad correct?

Anyone know how much vacuum I should be pulling if I were to hook a gauge to the intake with it running?

You'll be ok with at least 17" of vacuum, or higher, as Thain said. Yours will most likely be closer to 17 due to age and condition of the engine. A new engine, or one that still has air tight seals will pull around 19-21 inches of vacuum. If you have at least 17 inches of vacuum, try this... If you have access to one, grab a hand vacuum pump. And put it on the MAP, apply a vacuum, unless you release the vacuum it should hold it. If it doesn't hold vacuum it has failed.

If you do not have at least 17" of vacuum, verify that there are no vacuum leaks. If there are no leaks, make sure your ignition timing is set correctly. Timing also has to do with the amount of vacuum. In fact, short of a timing light, you can time an engine by setting it close to the highest vacuum reading it produces at idle.

[zoomie]

i am inclined to think you have a vacumn leak somewhere.