Another CFI to SEFI thread

[85crownHPP]

I did not wire in the red/blue start wire at the connector in the picture, only at the wiring near the trans dipstick. I had the swap running before I ever did that though...

Do you hear the fuel pump turn on? got fuel pressure? If you only added 'run' directly to the EEC relay, you probably aren't getting power to the fuel pump relay. You could either try splicing the pin you pulled out of the EEC relay into the 'run' wire you put in it and see if that gets it to everything else, or try making the 'run' splice in the connector where I did (or whatever equivalent you have for your older style harness)

[fmansfield444]

Finally got it to start! Thanks 85CrownHPP I did exactly what you said with the run at the connector and used the new coil harness. I think the run needs to be at the connector because it is needed for other things.

Now I just need to put some vacuum lines together and clean it up.

Also I did get a high rev but I thin the throttle body was stuck on the old CFI solenoid brocket on the valve cover

[fmansfield444]

Well cleaned it up and started running the throttle cable. I really need some new heater hoses my current one is squeezed by the upper intake. Also the vacuum line to the map sensor is loose.

It starts up ever time and is already more reliable than the CFI

It hesitates a lot when I give it throttle I can hear a hiss during this so I'm almost definite it's a vacuum leak.

I have a video but I can't upload it on my phone so it can come later

[fmansfield444]

Alright here are the videos of it running. You can definitely hear the vacuum leak in the second video, I'm hoping its a line and not the intake gasket. The exhaust leak is the new smog tube not hooked up yet (will probably just block it) also you can see the stress of my heater hose, I will definitely get some heater hoses and some vacuum lines as well.

The throttle cable is not hooked to the pedal yet, was fighting with it for some time before i gave it a break. Any advice on that?

I did notice a short high rev, but its not too bad, and my fuel pump is way louder now like mentioned in the other thread.

To anyone else wanting to do this swap I would strongly recommend they take Gadget's advice earlier in this thread to swap the valve covers or use a spacer for the upper intake. The stock CFI ones are nothing but in the way. The bracket lines up perfectly with the throttle body so it snags, and the air cleaner oil hose is perfectly in the way of a vacuum tree on the bottom of the upper intake as well.

[fmansfield444]

[gadget73]

If its still got that hesitation and you can't find any vacuum leaks, try unhooking the EGR to see if it goes away. If it does, shoot some oil into the EGR solenoid and see if that fixes it. Mine was sticky and I got full vacuum or no vacuum and it bogged off-idle. A bad TPS will also do this.

[86VickyLX]

It's hissing because you don't have an air filter on it to muffle the sound. If you've ever heard a car with a 'cold air' intake, you'd hear the same sound. It does seem to hesitate. Have you checked it for codes? As for vacuum leaks, make sure that the PCV valve is firmly inserted in the grommet on the lower intake manifold. Make sure the ignition timing is set properly as well!

[85crownHPP]

Great success!

What part of the throttle cable install is giving you trouble?

[Mercracer]

It's hissing because you don't have an air filter on it to muffle the sound.

If you cup your hand over the end of the throttle body while it is running, you will instantly know if the noise is coming from there or if you have an actual vacuum leak.

[fmansfield444]

The part that snaps into the top of the peddle there's like a rubber ring with a washer in front. Does the rubber get pinched by the peddle or does the peddle go between the rubber and washer? And the cable is kinda bunched up between the throttle body and the firewall.

That's also good advice on cupping the throttle body. I still need to get a good air filter for it.

Also I don't have the o2 sensors set up yet could this cause hesitation?

And I hope I got the vacuums ran right, I snagged the hose routing sticker from the 88 but still a little confusing.

[85crownHPP]

I think both pieces on the pedal end of the cable go behind the pedal lever (toward the rear of the car). Lift the gas pedal up from the floor so the top of the lever goes back, that should let you slide the cable in the thin slot and let it pull the end knub into the plastic piece and nestle them into the hole in the pedal lever. It's also possible I just made that up. I think someone gave me decaf...

Oh, mine ran & revved fine with no O2 sensors hooked up. I'm pretty sure in the case of bad/missing O2 signal the ECM just runs it rich by default.

[86VickyLX]

I think both pieces on the pedal end of the cable go behind the pedal lever (toward the rear of the car). Lift the gas pedal up from the floor so the top of the lever goes back, that should let you slide the cable in the thin slot and let it pull the end knub into the plastic piece and nestle them into the hole in the pedal lever. It's also possible I just made that up. I think someone gave me decaf...

Oh, mine ran & revved fine with no O2 sensors hooked up. I'm pretty sure in the case of bad/missing O2 signal the ECM just runs it rich by default.

Computer will run engine in open loop in the case of missing O2s.

[fmansfield444]

Had a little bit of time today. Started it and cupped the throttle body and it still hissed so I definitely got a leak somewhere. It hesitated when I gave it throttle quickly but when I eased into it, it was fine.

I haven't checked timing yet but I'm sure that could be adjusted

I got this pic somewhere off of this forum that shows the bottom of the upper intake with vacuum lines labelled



I have the three in the back to the map, tree, and fpr as stated.

The fat one that says to egr I ran to the Pcv on the back of the lower. that's where it was when I pulled it.

And the one coming out of the front that says charcoal canister I just blocked off along with the back nipple behind it. I wasn't sure where the charcoal canister was and it doesn't sound like its needed.

I know my map line is on there pretty loosely, but I can't pinpoint hissing from that, I will need to hook a vac gauge to it.

With how I ran the lines from the upper does it sound like I ran them right to you guys?

Was I wrong to block the charcoal line?

Thanks

[86VickyLX]

Charcoal canister is that bulky thing under the battery tray bolted to the fender. There's a vacuum solenoid that's in that area too. That vacuum line runs to that. And then theres another line that runs to the canister. Then from the canister it goes to a metal line that runs back to the fuel tank. it's good to have unless you love smelling raw gas all the time.

You need to make sure that your vacuum line for your MAP is tight. That sensor is the primary indicator of the computer to determine how much fuel to give the engine, given on manifold pressure (well lack of pressure). Most people use zip ties to pull the hose tight against the nipple. Since the original hose ford used was one size at one end, and a different size for the other. Even if that's not the issue, it will definitely help with throttle response.

[85crownHPP]

I got this pic somewhere off of this forum that shows the bottom of the upper intake with vacuum lines labelled

[ATTACH]34014[/ATTACH]

I have the three in the back to the map, tree, and fpr as stated.

That image is NOT correct.
The one that says EGR should be going to the PCV, like you did.
The one that is capped goes to the MAP sensor. The small one that says "MAP sensor or?" feeds the mess for the EGR and smog stuff iirc.