Another CFI to SEFI thread

[sly]

EGR can be a good thing for a dink more mileage and it does take the edge off in the heat as well (car won't run quite as hot). It's not needed though.

[fmansfield444]

Eh I'll keep it. It's not bothering me and anything for more mileage. For the coolant lines to the new egr plate one comes from a T in my coolant lines and one goes to the back nipple on the lower intake correct?

I put the efi solenoids over on the passenger fender but it's still crowded over there due to two solenoid my 85 EVTM calls the TAB and TAD. Those can hopefully go to the trash as I don't think the SEFI has plugs for them. I also moved the map sensor.

[sly]

yes... but you can bypass the EGR spacer coolant lines without ill effect (unless you plan on driving in -40 degree areas) and just run it from the T to the lower intake. Many folks do this just so they won't have the chance to leak coolant into the air intake path.

and in all actuality... this will give a little better power as well due to having the air charge being a little cooler. Probably not enough to feel, but might be enough for that 0.1mpg increase.

[85crownHPP]

Today I got the fuel lines hooked up and swapped ecms and got about 2/3 of it wired. I need to probably splice the connector that I believe gives the ECM power. (comes out of firewall near ECM) And I need to figure out which connector from the SEFI ECM goes to the ignition peg on the starter solenoid because the CFI one was wired with the ECM.

Power for the ECM/fuel pump relays (I hope you got those too) comes from a fuse link/ring terminal that attaches to the starter solenoid. That will be at the end of the SEFI harness, along with the very important ECM ground that goes right the the negative battery terminal.

If you want to use the SEFI harness start circuit, you need to merge some wiring from your car into the SEFI harness near the transmission dipstick. I have a post on that in my thread, if you can follow it. There will be connector for the 'start' peg on the starter solenoid coming out of the SEFI harness, just like the one on it now.
You can use the existing start circuit, it is separate from the CFI harness. Not doing this initially caused a high-rev startup problem for me, but if it does it to you, you could just only splice the start signal into the SEFI harness instead of doing all of what I did.

The only thing I did near the ECM itself was join the 'fuel pump power out' wire from the SEFI harness relay to the wire on my car going to the inertia switch (which then goes to the fuel pump) IIRC. That connector on my car's end had 3 or 4 other wires in it.. I never figured out what they were for, must just been CFI stuff!

The 'run' wire you will need to find (if you haven't) is right on the driver fender in an easy to get to 2-wire connector. It's the red/green wire iirc.

Luckily in my case ( I am using a different wiring harness than you) everywhere that merges needed to be made there were connectors right there, allowing me to chop off the ends of the CFI engine harness and use the pigtails, leaving the rest of the wiring going into the car relatively un-molested *just in case*... also *most* of the wire colors match, but be sure to verify this (the ID of the wires you are fooling with) and everything else I've told you yourself. Use my info only as a guide

[fmansfield444]

Yes that fuel shut off wiring must be what I'm talking about as mine has three wires as well.

I did grab the fuel pump and EEC solenoids but I'm guessing the ignition peg is cut off on the harness I got and come to think of it I think someone took the entire starter solenoid off the donor car before I got to it because I dont remember unbolting anything from it.

I do have a single wire near the starter solenoid with a long straight connector that has a chopped end. I think this is either the ignition peg or ground. Hopefully the EVTM can tell me but my 85 EVTM is very unclear on ECM wiring.

Thanks or the info on the fuel pump shutoff as I'm pretty sure this is what is hanging from my firewall. I will probably wire the start circuit in but for now I'd like to just get it started and if I don't have the high rev issue I may leave it

[gadget73]

Every time I've had to do some sort of wiring harness swap, there have been a handful of wires on the car that simply did not match up to anything I could find in any manual. Nothing ever seemed to be broken and it never gave codes. Not a clue what that crap is. Theres a big ass bundle of wires on Scott's 92 from the 4.6 motor that just don't tie to anything.

[fmansfield444]

Got the EVTM today and started trying to wire it together. I can get it to turn on and crank but can't get the fuel pump to work and I'm not sure if I have spark.

I have tried wiring in the safety fuel shutoff and still get no fuel pump. Also I have tried wiring in the run circuit but the EVTM shows that the EEC relay and the icm need it. Would I need to wire it into both or just the EEC relay?

Also i think the run circuit shares the same connector at the firewall as the fuel shutoff is this true? The connector I think is c450 or 452 and it has the red/green wire and the orange wire along with two others

[85crownHPP]

Do the relays click when you turn on the key? Do you get power at the wire you made the 'run' splice with? Make sure any and all engine/body ground wires coming out of that wiring harness get hooked up, they are important. How bad was that harness chopped up? If those got snipped the black wire ends may have disappeared into the loom...
I only had to make one connection for 'run' into the fat plug on the middle of the drivers fender (for my 90-91 type harness). Did you hook up the ECM ground at the battery and get the power feed hooked up at the starter solenoid terminal? That feeds both relays, the 'run' signal triggers them.
I'm not sure about 'run' being in the firewall connector with the fat orange fuel pump wire... I'm pretty sure those other wires in that didn't get connected to anything for my swap.

[fmansfield444]

i don't think the relays click. I hooked up the two ring terminals to the starter solenoid and hooked the ground up to the battery. I also hooked up the ground near the ecm to the fender but I still need to hook up the ground to the intake manifold near the oxygen sensors.

I will need to check for power at the "run" splice i made because i added it in next to the fat orange wire I will need to check for it on the wheel well like you said.

If the 'run' triggers both relays I bet that is my problem.

The harness doesn't appear to be that bad at all, just the battery ground was cut and I don't see anything that goes to the starter solenoid "I" peg like my CFI did. But I tracked the peg through my CFI harness and it goes to the fuel pump relay. But the same wire from the EFI fuel pump relay goes to one of those ring terminals so it should suffice.

When you made your run splice, where did you hook it into on the new harness? I was adding it to the EEC relay is that what you did?

Thanks a bunch

[86VickyLX]

Oh. One thing about the EVTM. They have a misprint for the starter solenoid. The pictures show that the fuel pump wiring gets attached to the side of the solenoid that is attached to the starter wire. This is incorrect and must be attached to the B+ terminal of the starter solenoid. Thain and I noticed this when I was helping him wire in his underhood fuse box on his TownCar.

[fmansfield444]

Alright after an hour of wondering why the EEC power relay wouldn't give power to the ECM I discovered that I had the ac wot relay confused with the EEC relay. Damn you colorblindness!

But once I figured it out I got the EEC and fuel pump to power up. Was easy, only two splices (fuel shutoff and run).

But I went to start it and now I don't have spark. always somethin

I still am using my current ignition circuit. And it started before I did this, is there anything I could've done to make it not spark?

[85crownHPP]

Yes! By using the CFI ignition coil wiring. You should find a connector for the coil in that harness, use that one.
If I understand it right, the CFI one cannot work now, because it is no longer grounded through an ECM / ignition module.

Im glad you figured out the 'run' - attached is a pic of mine anyway. The wire color is the same, the big black connector just southeast of center is the one going into the SEFI harness. Those other wires in it are for the oil level, temp and oil psi sensors, probably the CEL indicator and a couple other things, none of which I used. The other red wire there is a red/blue 'start' - I thought these two used to power the old coil and/or voltage regulator wiring but now I'm having second thoughts. They pop out of the forward lighting harness right there and had their own little connector (now chopped off). Your coil wiring is now unused, and if you do an alternator upgrade you can get rid of the whole other mess of the externally regulated alternator (large image).

The other small image is the connector that the oil & temp sensor and other wires will need to get spliced in to if you want your 'dummy' engine light and 'low oil' light (if you have it) to work.

[fmansfield444]

I think i notice you did the red blue start wore as well, I only added the red green run wire to the EEC relay. I just swapped the pin out of the relay connector with the CFI one to connect to my cars run/start 2 pin connector.

Did I need the red/blue start wire as well?

Yes I have a 3G ready to go in, just one thing at a time

[fmansfield444]

I just went out and plugged the other coil wiring in, still didn't start. Wasn't able to check for spark though but I'm guessing there isn't any.

Maybe I should wire the entire red green red blue harness in like you did since I only have run right now

Thanks

[86VickyLX]

Does it start in run if you jump the starter solenoid?