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rear defroster not working

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    rear defroster not working

    as title states, tried searching but to no avail, rear defroster doesn't work, checked the fuse, its good, light still comes on but doesn't activate, would putting different rear speakers in the back have anything to do with it? thats the only thing i remember doing lately and the defroster used to work fine when i got the car. thanks in advance

    #2
    There are little plugs that also go into the window area. Re check and see if you pulled one of the clips while you were installing the speakers.

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      #3
      With the defroster on, see if you have power to the connector for the grids. If so, check continuity for each "line" to see if there is a break. There is a repair kit, if there is.


      "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

      "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

      "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

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        #4
        switch could be bad btdt replace the switch.
        Last edited by MattsLincoln; 11-27-2011, 11:32 PM.

        1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
        -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
        1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

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          #5
          Originally posted by miamibob View Post
          With the defroster on, see if you have power to the connector for the grids. If so, check continuity for each "line" to see if there is a break. There is a repair kit, if there is.
          Here's an easy way to do this.

          JUST TOUCH THE LEADS TO THE GRID!!!! BE CAREFUL, YOU CAN SCRATCH OFF THE COATING AND RUIN THE GRID!!!!!!
          Get a voltmeter, with the defroster 'on'. On one side of the grid there will be 12 volts, or battery voltage, on the other side of the grid, there will be 0 or close to it. If the grid is working, the voltage should read in the middle, about half of the total voltage you saw on one side. If you have battery voltage or 0 in the middle, you have a break in that grid. But make sure you have voltage on one end, and not on the other. If you have voltage coming to the grid, but you have 12 volts on both sides, you've lost your ground. If you don't have voltage, then your feed is bad. Most likely your switch.

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