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    rebuilt window motor question (new issue)...

    OK, so I replaced three of the four window motor "rollers" with the Dorman replacement rollers (part 74410). The passenger front and back window motors seem to work fine. The driver door has developed a new issue. What it seems to do is that once it hits the stop at the top or bottom, the motor seems to still turn (but obviously not move anything). Are the new rollers getting chewed up inside the motor? Anyone with experience guess what is going on here? I packed plenty of grease inside the motor (gears, rollers, etc.), so should be good. I hate to tear down the damn thing again, but I will. Gadget's idea of the 7/16" ball bearings is starting to sound better....

    Ideas?
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    Originally posted by alchemist View Post
    OK, so I replaced three of the four window motor "rollers" with the Dorman replacement rollers (part 74410). The passenger front and back window motors seem to work fine. The driver door has developed a new issue. What it seems to do is that once it hits the stop at the top or bottom, the motor seems to still turn (but obviously not move anything). Are the new rollers getting chewed up inside the motor? Anyone with experience guess what is going on here? I packed plenty of grease inside the motor (gears, rollers, etc.), so should be good. I hate to tear down the damn thing again, but I will. Gadget's idea of the 7/16" ball bearings is starting to sound better....

    Ideas?
    It's very possible. I replaced one set in the '94 Vic, and it started doing that too. I have yet to take it apart, because I really don't care to. The bushings probably broke. I think those later model window motors suck.

    Comment


      #3
      The design is completely asinine, and I'm being nice. Just read the post on the forum about no F-bombs. Damn roller bushings!
      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
      90 Grand Marquis, stock

      Comment


        #4
        The entire motors (with gear sets) are cheap enough on Amazon or Ebay so I do not even mess with the gear sets anymore. I replace with the NEW motors and call it a day!! Bobby


        "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

        "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

        "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

        Comment


          #5
          I've had some of the 'new' Chinese window motors go bad too... if you can find a new Dorman unit, that's the way to go. Dorman re-engineers most of their replacement parts to eliminate defects in design.
          Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
          'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
          sigpic
          85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

          Comment


            #6
            Haven't used the "Chinese" parts but I wouldn't doubt it. Their door lock actuators are junk for sure and I only buy Motorcraft ones.


            "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

            "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

            "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by alchemist View Post
              The design is completely asinine, and I'm being nice. Just read the post on the forum about no F-bombs. Damn roller bushings!

              Not really when you think about it, its the designed weak point. Chew up some replaceable bushings, or chew up the gear teeth on the regulator... Your choice. =-)

              Alex.

              Comment


                #8
                I had the same problem with one of my windows. Clicked at full up/full down for a few weeks, but eventually the inner metal part sat on the bushings wrong and squished them, so I had to replace them again. Properly installed they shouldn't click. Only use grease (white lithium) on the plastic gear. Nothing on the bushings.
                Also, from my experience, they need to be installed a certain way because they are tapered at one end. IIRC the number that is on one side should be facing up. I THINK that's the small side. Not sure exactly, but they should only fit one way, with all of the marked sides facing the same direction.

                Comment


                  #9
                  This forum and you guys are the greatest. My passenger side window would not roll up or down. Did a search and read the posts. Went to Autozone and forked over my $7.99 + tax and took care of the problem. Bet there are a lot of folks who get soaked for big bucks when those $7.99 plugs would take care of the problem.

                  Don.
                  1993 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L AODE[SIGPIC]sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, here I am again. Yesterday on my way to work, stopped by Dairy Queen to get my favorite ice cream cone. Drivers window would not roll back up. Started to roll up and stopped rolled down just fine, but then would do nothing when trying to roll up. no sound or anything. tha window was all the way down, and when pushing the button to lower it, you could hear a click, could hear nothing when trying to raise. Drove the hour to work and the hour back, with window down. Kinda cool on the way back. Temp was down in the forties. Now have the door panel and all that stuff off. All the electrical wires disconnected. Tried raising the window manually. Wouldn't budge. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Did the passenger door motor awhile back, but can't recall the specific steps to get free access to the motor to take it apart. I have some access to the motor, removed the three bolts, but don't have the room I need. Any suggestions? Hoping to get this done quick. Gotta go in to work tonite.
                    Thanks,
                    Don.
                    1993 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L AODE[SIGPIC]sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      if the three bolts are out the motor should come out. Is the glass/lift arms blocking? Maybe you can wiggle the motor gears out of position and then raise the window?
                      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If you still have the window motor in it, (turn on the key) and hit the up button while you help push up the window. MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT GOING TO GET YOUR OR FINGERS SLICED OFF BY ANY SCISSOR ACTION OF THE ARMS IN THERE-If in doubt, get a stick.
                        If that fails, you will need to remove the motor before manual pushing the iwndow up.
                        Alex.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          wouldn't a 93 have a cable regulator?
                          Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                          'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                          sigpic
                          85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes the 93 would have a cable regulator.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I assumed a box considering this thread started out about box motors. =-O

                              Alex.

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