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    im confused

    so I was going to clean the terminals on the starter solinoid/relay and kinda broke it. Dont ask how just feel apart at the top. So I got a new one hook it up no problem but now its stuck open. If I wiggle the lil cable in the middle it will stop running. Think this cable went bad? or possible do I have it hooked up wrong. Its an aftermarket model so it has two parts where theat cable goes "s" and "i". Instructions say "S" is the most used. Maybe "I "is right? Or should I just go with motocraft version?


    Also does any have or know of a good place to get a wiring diagram? Time I checked all the cables and looked for grounding issues.

    #2
    btw im pretty sure there is a grounding issue went to disconnect the negative battery cable way hot to the touch.

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      #3
      what year car ? Most use just the S, some use S and I. Removing either while the engine is running should not cause it to stall though. The S terminal pulls the relay in to power the starter. The I terminal, if used, powers the ignition only when the engine is being cranked. When the key is in the "on" position and the engine is running, ignition power comes through the key switch.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        1991 is the year..jbew i frogot sumthing

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          #5
          Should be using just the S terminal. And disconnecting that isn't gonna shut your car off. The car won't crank, but it WILL NOT kill a running car...

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            #6
            ahhh i should have stated that another way. this only happens when the car is off. when I wiggle the "s" cable the starter will disengage. If not it keeps running.

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              #7
              if the starter keeps spinning with the key off, and unhooking the S wire makes it stop, you have a short somewhere in the wiring between the key switch and the starter relay. Unhook the S wire and see if it has power. I'd wager you will find that it does.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Well i was looking at my wiring..first found out the starter is burnt..Now Im trying to determine what caused it.. 1. I know it wasnt disengaging.. 2... I know that wiggling the S cable would cause it to disengage.

                So I know there is a short somewhere but me and wiring aren't friends, but im sure we will be close once this is all over. I have no idea where to start looking for the culprit. Well besides the S cable but from there I have no idea where it goes. Guess its time for a chilton.

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                  #9
                  chilton won't help this one much. it doesn't give you locations of squat. It does have wire diagrams that are also available on autozone.com if you sign up and log-in (repair manuals).

                  EVTM (Elec/vac tech manual?) would be better since it's got locations as well.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                    #10
                    It's burnt because it ran for too long, cranking over for more than 15 seconds without 1 minute breaks to cool it off will kill the starter.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If all else fails and you're desparate to drive the car reliably, don't overlook the option of wiring a momentary switch directly to the "S" terminal, or else jumping to it from underhood.


                      Turns out the best fix for starter-solenoid issues is to upgrade to the later style mini starter (also used on '90 and '91 civview models, IIRC), especially since you can then use a normal 30A relay and elminate the heavy duty thing entirely - but I thoroughly understand the inclination to avoid that kind of cash outlay ($130 in my case) just for something dumb like a starter.


                      FWIW, I found that '79 model starters are a bit cheaper than if you search for say an '87 - the main difference seems to be that the earlier one ways a bit more.
                      Last edited by 1987cp; 08-06-2011, 07:45 PM.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                        If all else fails and you're desparate to drive the car reliably, don't overlook the option of wiring a momentary switch directly to the "S" terminal, or else jumping to it from underhood.


                        Turns out the best fix for starter-solenoid issues is to upgrade to the later style mini starter (also used on '90 and '91 civview models, IIRC), especially since you can then use a normal 30A relay and elminate the heavy duty thing entirely - but I thoroughly understand the inclination to avoid that kind of cash outlay ($130 in my case) just for something dumb like a starter.


                        FWIW, I found that '79 model starters are a bit cheaper than if you search for say an '87 - the main difference seems to be that the earlier one ways a bit more.
                        That and they're even more of a power hog.

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                          #13
                          Are they really? Wonder why most of my starter-solenoid problems have been with the later type starter and relay, then. I had one early starter/relay combo stick on me on the '79, and I replaced the relay with a cheap old type Duralast solenoid and all was good. Same when the original on the '81 was being funky, I dug out the solenoid I'd bought for the '79 and all was fine. Does this mean that the later style solenoid was more worser?
                          Last edited by 1987cp; 08-06-2011, 10:31 PM.
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                            #14
                            Ok go the new starter.. went a ahead and did an exchange on the relay just to be safe. Shall see where we go from there.

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