Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Couple Door window motor questions....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Couple Door window motor questions....

    OK, I bought the three little roller plugs and installed them into my Ford (original) window motor. Feeding those damn motor bolts thru the drilled out holes in the interior door skin and then guessing where the motor was was tough, with just one person. My son helped me line up the motor holes with the regulator holes and we finally got it installed. Couple of questions for those of you who have replaced or repaired window motors:

    1. With the door trim off and just testing the window function up and down, do you notice that when you hold the button in the 'down' position and the window is at its lower most travel, the door bows out slightly? Is this normal? Is there an adjustment to prevent this?

    2. I accidentally tightened, not to high torque, but fairly tight, the window motor mounting bolts before testing whether the motor gear and regulator gear were 'meshed'. When I first hit the window switch, I heard a pop and then everything acted normal (window worked well up and down several cycles. Did i hurt anything?


    Thanks everyone...

    RT
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    No that's normal. The doors are pretty flimsy.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks! I did also notice that working the motor back and forth a few times loosened the bolts (after tightening with a nut driver). So i tightened them to about spec. (e.g. 80 inch-lbs). Seemed to do the trick. I don't want those bastards loosening up on me! I used a plop of grease on the bolt head to help hold the bolt in the socket when inserting thru the door. Perhaps some of the grease worked its way onto the threads.
      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
      90 Grand Marquis, stock

      Comment


        #4
        my driver door bows some even with all the paneling on (on my 88 - dunno about the other doors... I don't typically sit next to them).

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          I notice my mirror moved more on my original drivers door than it does with the one I replaced it with. This door is more solid and has very little rust.

          Comment


            #6
            They all do that...across the ford platform of those years...dads 85 gt does it as well.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              my doors are 100% rust free and they do the flexy thing when the window goes up all the way
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                the only exception in my garage in the 82 Mark. I dunno why, but I can't see any flex in that coupe's doors. The fenders is another story... but the doors are very stout.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment

                Working...
                X