Fan doesn't blow..........

[91longroof]

So it's been a couple of month's now and so far, so good, no more issues with the fan not coming on. I love problems that cure themselves. But I still wonder if the fan is blowing at full speed. It does take about five seconds to get from dead stop to full blast, and high is less than inspiring. I don't know anyone else with a box, so I can't really check for comparision. It's high though is about like medium in most other cars I've checked. Is this normal, or does a new fan motor need to be installed?

[86VickyLX]

So it's been a couple of month's now and so far, so good, no more issues with the fan not coming on. I love problems that cure themselves. But I still wonder if the fan is blowing at full speed. It does take about five seconds to get from dead stop to full blast, and high is less than inspiring. I don't know anyone else with a box, so I can't really check for comparision. It's high though is about like medium in most other cars I've checked. Is this normal, or does a new fan motor need to be installed?

So what you're saying is, when you put the switch on the high setting, it takes 5 seconds to start blowing faster? Replace that piece of shit with a new fan.

[91longroof]

Put a new fan motor in and blew better until my no blow gremlin reappeared. I guess the car knows it's about to go on a road trip so it's gonna pull this b.s. on me. So my question is, the fan resistor, is it the same for atc and non-atc cars? I have looked all over and can't find a listing for a ATC resistor. Any help would be appreciated as we are due to go on a camping trip farther south than I already live and A/C would be nice.

[sly]

maybe yes... the resistor pack is in the same location for both. IIRC, there was only one option when I replaced mine which would indicate they're the same for both.

[86VickyLX]

maybe yes... the resistor pack is in the same location for both. IIRC, there was only one option when I replaced mine which would indicate they're the same for both.

But you gotta remember that this is the dumb 90+ bs.

[91longroof]

But you gotta remember that this is the dumb 90+ bs.

That's what I'm running into. I can't find anything in the area you guys say the resistor should be in that resembles the pics I have seen of a blower resistor.

[91longroof]

So it appears that 90+ with ATC has a blower motor control module , not a standard resistor. Part number for this unit is 8w7z19e624a from Ford and is available for about $55 from Starkville Ford online, local dealer wants $92 jobber price. Unfortunately I can't get it by this weekend from them. It appears this unit was used on all ATC cars up to 2010. So I might be able to do a junkyard run before I go.

[mitymerc]

What is the location of the thing of which you speak? Can you get a pic of it?

[sly]

oh... it's the bastage transistor like in all the newer ones. crap POS it is IMHO.

supposedly it's in the same general location under the hood (driver side of the evap core), but the connector is out to the side instead of straight on. You can just replace the giant transistor in the middle of it if you have access to an electronics shop that caries components like that.

[91longroof]

Got one off a 97 GM. Will put on tomorrow. Here's an ad with a picture of the part.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/CrownVictoria/BlowerMotorResistor/AM-29288113/509250.html

[mitymerc]

Got one off a 97 GM. Will put on tomorrow. Here's an ad with a picture of the part.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Cro...13/509250.html

Thanks

[91longroof]

Got one off a 97 GM. Will put on tomorrow. Here's an ad with a picture of the part.

http://www.am-autoparts.com/Ford/Cro...13/509250.html

Update: Now I know why Ford sells the control module by itself or in a kit with a wiring harness. Unit is the same, but the plug is different. Time to drop back and punt. Hmmm.....Me thinks a relay to the battery with an on/off switch as a stop gap measure should work until I can go back to the junkyard and rob the pigtail.

[sly]

if you're good with a soldering iron... swap the tin can looking transistor over. when you pull one out... look at the bottom and note which pin has the insulator around it at the casing and put the other one in there in the same position. You may also want to add thermal grease (electrically non-conductive types) to the interface with the heatsink for longevity.

[91longroof]

if you're good with a soldering iron... swap the tin can looking transistor over. when you pull one out... look at the bottom and note which pin has the insulator around it at the casing and put the other one in there in the same position. You may also want to add thermal grease (electrically non-conductive types) to the interface with the heatsink for longevity.

Ahh, you're a genius! Why didn't I think of that? I was thinking that I was going to have to go back to the junkyard and cut the harness from the donor and splice it into mine. Is that usually the only thing that goes wrong is that transistor in the middle?

[sly]

that's pretty much the only part... so yes.