Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

bad FPR symptoms?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    FWIW, it gets an italian tune up from time to time.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #17
      Que?

      Comment


        #18
        I think that means you get on the highway and beat the shit out of it.
        2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
        2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black)
        Past Panthers
        1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)

        Originally posted by Lincolnmania
        if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by tjc78 View Post
          I think that means you get on the highway and beat the shit out of it.

          Drive it for a while in 3rd past where I'd normally shift into OD, prettymuch
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #20
            Put it in second gear at 45. It'll clean everything. Hell, My car was shooting out carbon chunks in 3rd gear on the dyno. lol.

            Comment


              #21
              The term "Italian tuneup" stems from old exotic car mechanics. Customers would bring their Ferraris or whatever in because they were running poorly, often because the owners would baby them too much. The mechanics would take the cars out for a high-speed, high-rev run, blow all the carbon out, and return them to the owner.
              Originally posted by gadget73
              There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
              91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
              93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
              Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
              Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
              95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                question: What does a fuel pressure regulator do (or fail to do properly) when it's starting to go bad?



                relevant information: My car has always taken what I consider longer than normal to crank. Key on, turn to crank, engine cranks 3-4x and fires up. If I crank it and only let it turn once or twice (especially when cold) it won't fire, but then usually on the second attempt, first crank it will fire immediately. Makes me think fuel problem but I am a n00b.
                sounds normal to me but hard to say without seeing it.. the eec does delay the starting for a second or two to promote oil flow.
                Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by cld783 View Post
                  sounds normal to me but hard to say without seeing it.. the eec does delay the starting for a second or two to promote oil flow.
                  Supposedly. But I've had instances where you literally touch the crank position on ignition switch and the bitch starts.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                    Supposedly. But I've had instances where you literally touch the crank position on ignition switch and the bitch starts.
                    The videos I've seen of guys starting their 5.0 Panthers all have the cars turning over faster than mine does.
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                      The videos I've seen of guys starting their 5.0 Panthers all have the cars turning over faster than mine does.
                      You mean the actual cranking is faster? Or it takes fewer cranks to start? Because of the fact that the 89 and older starters don't have the onboard solenoid, they sound completely different and I've always thought they sounded like they were turning the engine over at a quicker RPM. I know mine, especially when cold, takes 5 or 6 cranks to start up, but if you crank, let go, then crank again it'll fire on the second rev. I have always been told that the EEC delays starting, especially when the engine is cold, to promote oiling on the cold engine.
                      A carbed engine in good tune will often catch as soon as the starter is bumped.

                      If you think the starter is turning the engine too slowly, consider replacing starter. If starter is new, replace battery cables. I had a problem recently where the starter tested good and the car wouldn't start at all. It didn't get worse over time either. I drove to the store, parked. When I came out, the car just wouldn't start, and I had to have it towed home so I could replace the battery cables. I also upgraded the cables from 6ga to 4ga, but I still used marine terminals like I always do.
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                      91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                      93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                      Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                      Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                      95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by 91waggin View Post
                        You mean the actual cranking is faster? Or it takes fewer cranks to start? Because of the fact that the 89 and older starters don't have the onboard solenoid, they sound completely different and I've always thought they sounded like they were turning the engine over at a quicker RPM. I know mine, especially when cold, takes 5 or 6 cranks to start up, but if you crank, let go, then crank again it'll fire on the second rev. I have always been told that the EEC delays starting, especially when the engine is cold, to promote oiling on the cold engine.
                        A carbed engine in good tune will often catch as soon as the starter is bumped.

                        If you think the starter is turning the engine too slowly, consider replacing starter. If starter is new, replace battery cables. I had a problem recently where the starter tested good and the car wouldn't start at all. It didn't get worse over time either. I drove to the store, parked. When I came out, the car just wouldn't start, and I had to have it towed home so I could replace the battery cables. I also upgraded the cables from 6ga to 4ga, but I still used marine terminals like I always do.

                        er, I mean it takes too long to start. I have a new pmgr starter and all of my cables are new. it cranks as fast as it ever has. sorry for the confusion.

                        the only time it's slower than normal cranking is -20 or -30 weather....
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Just put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on my car. You gotta pull upper intake off to get one on the bolts. If you pull the intake off, it makes it easier to get at all of the bolts.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            It's probably been discussed before, but what good is an adjustable regulator?
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #29
                              It's like, adjustable and stuff.



                              I've gathered that for some carb types, tweaking the fuel pressure is a normal part of their tuning procedure. I've also heard of SEFI goons doing it, though I've also heard that it's not highly recommended.

                              The regulator that started spewing on me was a Holley adjustable, BTW. No idea what went wrong.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I didn't drive the car for about 48 hours and went to start it today and it barely cranked (starter was spinning as fast as it always has, volt meter read 12.something) then fired almost as soon as I put the key in run. It cranked for a split second and fired immediately.

                                As always I let the fuel pump prime and stop before turning the key to run.

                                Bad injector? Temperature and humidity rose slightly in the past few days with the change of seasons - Perhaps fuel from the leaking injector was partially atomized in the cylinder before I turned it over? I don't know much about anything but that's my first assumption.
                                sigpic


                                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X