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    #31
    actually its not just 12v. When you charge a coil and discharge it, the discharge voltage is significantly higher than 12v. I've gotten lit up more than once by relay coils. Starter relays are diode protected to discharge that voltage to ground so you won't get shocked but it is very possible to light up your life with a 12vdc circuit. It won't kill you but it'll definitely give you a tickle.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment

      #32
      well installed the new one and it seems to be fine now reads at 190 to 195 degrees. guess it was time for a new one. no leaking i used castle silicone gasket bead sealer. dries quickly and works good.

      1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)      -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
      1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

      Comment

        #33
        Originally posted by marquisman View Post
        fail safe= FAIL! iv had nothing but issues with them stupid T-stats. iv replaced a few in my own and friends cars cause they stick open. i replaced 3 of them in my buddies ranger. one little burn out, then she is stuck open and running cold the next day. never had an issue when replaced with a motorcraft one. thats why i use alot of motorcraft stuff that is still avail.
        Um, isn't that the point? "Fail safe" means that something is designed to fail in a way that won't wreck your stuff ......... I'm given to understand that sort of design consideration gets a lot of attention in applications where the stuff it's protecting costs a penny or two more than a worn-out Ranger engine.
        Last edited by 1987cp; 03-11-2011, 12:30 AM.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

        Comment

          #34
          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
          Um, isn't that the point? "Fail safe" means that something is designed to fail in a way that won't wreck your stuff ......... I'm given to understand that sort of design consideration gets a lot of attention in applications where the stuff it's protecting costs a penny or two more than a worn-out Ranger engine.
          Yeah, but if it gets even a little hot, like if you were romping on the engine for extended periods of time, then the thing would get stuck open, then you have complaints of no heat, bad gas mileage and whatnot.

          Comment

            #35
            If you say so. I still see that as less of a problem than overheating, and I'll notice immediately when the temp needle fails to climb to 180. Possibly the average car owner would rather have their engine overheat (triggering the factory engine warning light, assuming they don't ignore it) than notice that they have no heat?

            Granted, my car that has a FailSafe brand thermostat also has an electric fan, so it'll stay a reasonable temperature even if the thermostat were stuck open ....
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment

              #36
              ever since i put the new thermostat in i have gotten much better heat coming into the cabin when i have my heat on.

              1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)              -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
              1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

              Comment

                #37
                Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                Um, isn't that the point? "Fail safe" means that something is designed to fail in a way that won't wreck your stuff ......... I'm given to understand that sort of design consideration gets a lot of attention in applications where the stuff it's protecting costs a penny or two more than a worn-out Ranger engine.
                this all took place in january. the thing is, the gauge never passed the mid mark for temp. i could understand if your temp is close to the red hot mark. but mid? come on, a T-stat should not stick open at that point. it sucks driving a vehicle running cold in bellow zero weather.

                1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                Comment

                  #38
                  Cold engines make for excessive wear too. The thermostat is there for more than interior comfort and EFI happiness. The motor wears least and burns most efficiently between 190 and 200 degrees coolant temperature. Funny enough, the stock thermostat is a 192 or 195.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #39
                    exactly. my point, stick with the regular motorcraft part.

                    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                    Comment

                      #40
                      Originally posted by marquisman View Post
                      this all took place in january. the thing is, the gauge never passed the mid mark for temp. i could understand if your temp is close to the red hot mark. but mid? come on, a T-stat should not stick open at that point. it sucks driving a vehicle running cold in bellow zero weather.
                      This is exactly the thing I was talking about.

                      Comment

                        #41
                        EFI happiness?

                        Oh, you guys all have electronicalness on your engines, don't you.
                        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                        Comment

                          #42
                          Ever run a carb on a car with no thermostat? They run like crap. Carb icing sucks, and being stuck in perpetual semi-choke mode is also annoying. Older Fords with the heater hose that clips to the choke thermostat will do that. EFI motors will run smooth with no thermostat in stupidly cold weather, but they run rich and waste fuel while doing it. You don't get proper efficiency out of a carb on a frigid motor either so its really nothing to do with making the system happy.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment

                            #43
                            Nope, never run anything with no thermostat and never had a thermostat fail. Not really sure how or why a thermostat would fail, unless it's a lemon or in an unimaginably severe case of neglect. :shrugs:

                            Shouldn't an electric-fan car (my new point of reference!) get up to temperature just regardless, except if the ambient air really is that frigid? (I've noticed mine running the fan a fair amount, even with stupid-cold temperatures, so I assume with no thermostat it would operate the same except for slower warmups?)
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                            Comment

                              #44
                              Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                              Nope, never run anything with no thermostat and never had a thermostat fail. Not really sure how or why a thermostat would fail, unless it's a lemon or in an unimaginably severe case of neglect. :shrugs:

                              Shouldn't an electric-fan car (my new point of reference!) get up to temperature just regardless, except if the ambient air really is that frigid? (I've noticed mine running the fan a fair amount, even with stupid-cold temperatures, so I assume with no thermostat it would operate the same except for slower warmups?)
                              I've heard of instances where having no thermostat at all could cause a car to overheat, since the water is being moved through the radiator too fast, making it near impossible to cool the water.

                              And in response to the warm up times with a stuck open thermostat with an electronic cooling fan...

                              !995 Ford Mustang, 5.0, with the stock electric cooling fans. The car had one of those failsafe thermostats, and the thing never got warm. Fans obviously never came on because the temperature of the coolant never increased. He drove it for half a year like that. The car was a mega pig on gas, and it had 2.73s in it. He averaged 15 highway... Switched it for a 195 stant thermostat. Within 5-10 minutes the engine warmed up, and the cooling fans came on. He drove it for a few weeks and noted that his mileage had increased by 6 mpg on the highway.

                              Comment

                                #45
                                Funny, you'd think someone would notice that the car isn't warming up. Guess not. :nonono:
                                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                                Comment

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