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power locks -- something ain't right

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    #1

    power locks -- something ain't right

    i couldn't unlock the driver door w/ the key from the outside (had to unlock from passenger and use power unlock)-- felt like it was binding. i ended up pulling out the actuator motor, as i assumed something was wrong (the rod off the motor was bent, likely from attempted force on the key/rod). so i ordered a new one from ebay and installed it this morning, but same problem returns.

    how is this *supposed* to work? when the actuator is "up" to lock the door, the key/rod is not able to push the mechanism back "down" against the actuator. seems like there should be some kind of clutch/slippage built in which allows for the door to be unlocked.

    any help would be appreciated.
    Tags: actuator, power locks
    #2
    hmmmmmm

    unless... is the key supposed to unlock via the power actuator and not via mechanical means? if that is the case, where do i start troubleshooting?

    Comment

      #3
      no, the key manually operates the rods. Does the lock turn OK with the lock actuator totally removed? If it doesnt, something in the linkage or something in that latch is bound up. I'd start by spraying the hell out of the latch with something like wd40 to clear out the old grease and loosen the thing up. If that gets it freed up, work the lock a bunch of times, then re-grease the latch with some lithium grease. If it works smooth without the actuator installed, there is a problem with the actuator itself.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment

        #4
        yea, key works fine when actuator is out of the equation... which is why i thought i had a bad actuator. even if i reach in by hand and try to push the mechanism down, it won't go against this brand new actuator. if i pull it out should i be able to push/pull the rod in the actuator manually?

        Comment

          #5
          P.s.

          i've got another of your threads bookmarked, gadget, as my ATC "floor" setting doesn't work. (thanks for that).

          hopefully get this d@mn lock fixed first.

          Comment

            #6
            It's possible that the rod going to the actuator is bent from being forced against the actuator when trying to open it by key.

            85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
            160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
            waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

            06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by johnunit View Post
              It's possible that the rod going to the actuator is bent from being forced against the actuator when trying to open it by key.
              that was the case w/ the old one, but not the new one.

              arrrgh.

              Comment

                #8
                Before you put your new actuator in, where you able to easily pull the rod in and out of the actuator relatively easily? (it'll resist at first, but once it gets going it'll move quickly and easily). Sounds like you have another bad actuator.

                Alex.

                Comment

                  #9
                  id go with bad actuator. if you pull the rubber boot off the actuator, you can see how it works. the rod comming off the actuator, has a worm gear on the actuator side. think as the actuator as a electric motor. when you hook up a negative and positive wire to a battery, you will run the motor in one direction. switch the polarity, then you run the motor the oposite way. you are doing this when you operate the power lock button. so when you push the button, you are turning the lock motor in a left or right direction. now with the worm geared rod, when the lock motor is activated, it will push out or pull in the rod, unlocking or locking the latch. now when you use the key to lock or unlock, you are moving the lock motor by the rod. now what happens to these things is, if any moisture gets in to the lock motor, the guts inside will seize. and if you have colder climate, the lock motor will freeze, causing seizure. i hope that wasent confusing lol. now how have i fixed this issue you ask? simple, i remove the pass and driver side door panels and go ahead and rip the stupid things out. then re install the door panels lol

                  1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
                  1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
                  1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
                  2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
                  2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Hey mang, can you move the lock actuator by hand out of the door, if so, the actuator is not your problem.
                    You have bent linkage somewhere between the lock cylinder and the lock latch inside the door if you can move the actuator by hand.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      figured it out

                      the 'attachment' rod from the actuator was too long. so using the key, it wouldn't go down quite enough since the worm gear rod was already fully compressed. the new one from ebay came w/ a bunch of others (for other fords, i guess). luckily one rod was a bit shorter, though it was a helluva lot of fun getting it in the mechanism since the angle was different.

                      anyhoo, now i've got a new issue...

                      Comment

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