Hi!
Will have time this Sunday to take open the panel and have a look, but basically:
When I hit the master lock switch, all the door locks go ka-chunk, except one-- the right rear door. At first I thought it was completely broken, then I realized that if I hold down the switch, it locks itself, just at a several-seconds' snail's pace.
It unlocks, however, just as fast as any of the others.
I learned that door locks are (electro)magnetic locks, using solenoids to pull down?
Do they use a spring to come up?
Here's where I'm going with this: one possibility is that there's something rubbing against it in the door, so it's fighting more resistance. But if it's spring loaded, wouldn't it be slow to unlock too? Or perhaps not, anyway?
The other possibility is that theres a problem with the solenoid itself, or in the wiring to it. I can certainly check for 12.5V.
If some mechanical interference within the door panel would likely cause it to BOTH slowly unlock and to lock, then I might just buy a new lock solenoid before I get into it on the expectation that it will need to be replaced, so that I don't find myself driving to the parts store with an unlocked, torn-apart door
Has this happened to your car, and what did you find out?
thanks!!
-Bernard
Will have time this Sunday to take open the panel and have a look, but basically:
When I hit the master lock switch, all the door locks go ka-chunk, except one-- the right rear door. At first I thought it was completely broken, then I realized that if I hold down the switch, it locks itself, just at a several-seconds' snail's pace.
It unlocks, however, just as fast as any of the others.
I learned that door locks are (electro)magnetic locks, using solenoids to pull down?
Do they use a spring to come up?
Here's where I'm going with this: one possibility is that there's something rubbing against it in the door, so it's fighting more resistance. But if it's spring loaded, wouldn't it be slow to unlock too? Or perhaps not, anyway?
The other possibility is that theres a problem with the solenoid itself, or in the wiring to it. I can certainly check for 12.5V.
If some mechanical interference within the door panel would likely cause it to BOTH slowly unlock and to lock, then I might just buy a new lock solenoid before I get into it on the expectation that it will need to be replaced, so that I don't find myself driving to the parts store with an unlocked, torn-apart door
Has this happened to your car, and what did you find out?
thanks!!
-Bernard
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