I've finally got around to the non-working passenger front window. Took off the door panel, got the motor out and sure enough it's seized up, which is what I was expecting. Tested the connector in the door to see if there is power to the motor, and I got nada on my meter - so I'm guessing that not only is the motor bad but the so is the wiring or relay. So how do I troubleshoot this, and if it is the passenger side window relay, how do I find it and replace it? TIA
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No relay in boxes afaik, I'm guessing the other windows work? Are you sure its not a switch problem? What leads you to believe the motor is seized?Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
sigpic
85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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The motor is full of broken bits of plastic, the round nylon thingies. Also, I can't get the damn central cog/gear out to clean the crap out - does anyone have any tips?
I am actually getting a reading on my meter at the switch itself, but not at the connector to the motor. The other windows do work.
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There may be a very tiny e-clip holding the gear in, I think the newer ones have one...
If the motor made noise, it may just need the bushings.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
sigpic
85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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And if the motor made noise it would be getting power.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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There is a 'safety relay'. It's found in the passengers side kick panel. Though if it's just the passengers window not working it can't be the relay. Since it also powers the drivers door and rear passengers as well.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I figured out the problem after finally realizing that my neighbor's meter was broken - what a waste of time that was! Turns out that the switch and wiring are ok, I think - they tested out fine with a working meter. The motor itself must be no good, as there is definately power going to it, and a test of the motor's continuity confirmed that. I'm going to have to get a new motor - rebuilding this one is beyond me, I suspect.
There do seem to be a few options for new/reman motors out there, such as Cardone, Dorman, a couple of NAPA brands and the expensive Motorcraft brand. This leads me to 2 questions -
1. The O'Reilly brand of reman motors comes with a limited lifetime warranty - whatever that means - for about $43. Any good?
2. The window in question has not worked or gone up and down since I owned the car - about 3 years, and who knows how long before that. Do I need to lube/prepare anything in the door, ie. the regulator, in addition to replacing the motor?
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I plan to try a new Dorman motor next... they are an evolved design... they were 30 bucks on rock last I checkedPete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
sigpic
85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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I just had a similar problem with my friends 87 t top mustang. The window motor just quit working. Ripped of the door panel, pulled out the motor,plugged the motor into my car and still, it would barely budge. Took the cover off, and the bushings were still in good shape. The grease must have hardened through all the years. I gave him a used motor I had lying around and all was well.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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sometimes a bit of the bushing will get wedged between the worm gear and the large outer gear. You can pull the motor itself out of the back of the gear housing by removing the screws.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Well, I got the new (reman) motor - works fine, and is identical to the old one. However, I'm having a hell of a problem getting it into place - all the bolts line up fine, but the gear teeth on the motor won't mesh with the teeth on the regulator - so the motor just spins away when I press the switch, engaging thin air.
Am I missing something obvious? Any tips for getting this thing to fit right?
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All of the bolts have to be tightened down or its gonna spin air like that, I had the same problem when I just held the motor in place and tried to use the window a little bit, it torques itself out of place.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Hmmm - I did tighten the bolts up, and the thing still spins and doesn't grab the regulator teeth. The motor can only go in one way, right? And when you tighten the bolts, I assume the cog on the motor has a nice tight fit with the regulator?
Is it possible that the regulator or the mounting bracket have shifted a bit whilst removing the old motor?
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yup only one way for it to bolt in...as for the regulator i can't really say, hopefully someone else can chime in.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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