Stalling and won't idle right

[MattsLincoln]

well at scottfest my car died and wont stay running we got it to run finally. but now i have the same issue when i start the car it will die. i have to keep giving it gas until it fully warms up then it will stay running but with a rough idle that goes high then very low to the point were it wants to cut out then repeat over and over. When you put it in gear she stalls. Any options here.

i just purchased myself

a brand new OEM ignition control module
1983 Ford Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis EVTM Manual
1983 Ford Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis Body, Chassis, Electrical Shop Manual

and a 1983 Ford Engine/Emissions diagnostics Shop Manual.

Hopefully they help me and the will be specifically about CFI and EEC-III.

i am also going to buy a new coil as mines original and i can see water residue in the bottom of the plug socket on mine. Also buying new orifice tube new fan clutch, MAP sensor a new accumulator.

Could this also be problems with the IAC.

[BerniniCaCO3]

Just a shot in the dark, I am not so experienced with engine questions;

but I had a volvo that idled very rough. Took it to the dealer and asked online; the issue was dissolving seals on the oil pan or o-rings in the engine, or both, clogging the oil flow. Dealer said engine O-rings, which are more expensive to replace, lots of people said the oil pan seals are more common and do the same thing. About a month or two later the oil pressure light started coming on sporadically, confirming the issue. Sold the car rather than deal with it; the transmission was not going to live for the longterm anyway.

There was a second issue (this lemon of a car had many issues in fact...) that you know how when you're in drive, but with the foot off the gas, you might roll along at 10mph or so? But when you brake, you're not fighting the engine-- there's a sensor that tells the engine you're braking, and not to keep going.
That sensor had gone bad on the volvo, and so stopped at a stoplight, it would still attempt to surge forward every few seconds. Incredibly irritating.

[1987cp]

but I had a volvo that idled very rough. Took it to the dealer and asked online; the issue was dissolving seals on the oil pan or o-rings in the engine, or both, clogging the oil flow. Dealer said engine O-rings, which are more expensive to replace, lots of people said the oil pan seals are more common and do the same thing.

Figured I'd best mention, I'd be shocked to hear of this happening on a SBF. The only rubber seals are the front and rear main seals and the two rubber bits at each end of the oilpan, and an '83 would have used the more modern one-piece rear main seal.

Does make me wonder what your Volvo service department might have meant by "engine O-rings" ...



Matt, have you eliminated the possibility of major vacuum leaks?

[Ghorneck]

Sure sounds like the IAC has a problem. Pull it and see if its all gunked up. Throttle body cleaner will clean it up.

[Lincolnmania]

pull the egr valve and clean it......might have some crap in it and it's stuck open a little

[MattsLincoln]

will do both a lot of people at my shop said it's the IAC. Where the hell is this located and how do you remove that and the egr valve.

[Ghorneck]

Ummm.... check your workshop manual?

[Lincolnmania]

there is no spoon matt

[MattsLincoln]

Ummm.... check your workshop manual?

didn't get it yet will take a couple of days to deliver.

[MattsLincoln]

there is no spoon matt

what does that mean

[91waggin]

There was a second issue (this lemon of a car had many issues in fact...) that you know how when you're in drive, but with the foot off the gas, you might roll along at 10mph or so? But when you brake, you're not fighting the engine-- there's a sensor that tells the engine you're braking, and not to keep going.
That sensor had gone bad on the volvo, and so stopped at a stoplight, it would still attempt to surge forward every few seconds. Incredibly irritating.

Our cars just have a normal torque converter. None of that shit. Bullshit like this is why I hate hate HATE European cars.

[1987cp]

:lol: I don't have no electronics telling anything I'm braking, I don't.

Except for the brake lights. :3gears:

[85crownHPP]

CFI CARS HAVE NO IAC!!!!!

Im guessing that we fixed a vacuum leak that was causing it to idle a little high, and now it wont idle high enough to stay running all the time. Id crank the idle up a little more for now until you get it worked out.
Mine used to do the same thing, I could never figure it out, an I wound up hooking the idle stepper (aka dashpot, aka VOTM) solenoid to a switch so i could raise the idle up myself when it started to act wonky.

[MattsLincoln]

CFI CARS HAVE NO IAC!!!!!

Im guessing that we fixed a vacuum leak that was causing it to idle a little high, and now it wont idle high enough to stay running all the time. Id crank the idle up a little more for now until you get it worked out.
Mine used to do the same thing, I could never figure it out, an I wound up hooking the idle stepper (aka dashpot, aka VOTM) solenoid to a switch so i could raise the idle up myself when it started to act wonky.

well replaced the egr valve with a refurbished one out of a junkyard 1984 town car. Was spanking clean in it too. all cleaned and put it on and now the car seems fine but now it will stall rarely and i wonder if that caused the new TPS i have on there to go. any other ideas. it's got the new ford racing spark plug wires on but it still stalls rarely now when my foots of the gas and i am braking or when put into gear sometimes. also does the idle kickdown by itself because it seems like it doing it by itself without me pushing the pedal is that normal.

[85crownHPP]

Yes, when the mechanical choke is off, the car will control the idle a little bit with the 'dashpot'... it's the vacuum operated plunger attached to the bracket where we were adjusting the idle. That was one of the things we re-connected, its hose was formerly connected to the PCV valve, on the extra unused teat.
It's doing its job properly as far as I can tell, it's one of those things that either works or it doesn't, no in betweens like other various engine controls.