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removing electric mirror glass?

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    removing electric mirror glass?

    my d/s mirror (the entire unit) has a bit of play in it, as in it rotates on the mount, but the screw on the front doesn't seem to move/tighten?

    is there a screw behind the glass that holds the mirror on to the mount?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    I can get you some pics of a mirror I dissected, if you like.

    I found that on the power mirrors, the glass (with its plastic backing) just clips onto a pivot mounted on a plastic housing that holds the motors and positioning screws. Turns out that to get it out, you just pry very carefully on the glass till it pops free. Then the motor assembly is held to the metal mirror housing with two or three Philips-head screws. I don't recall whether the wiring pulls through conveniently or not, but I'm thinking you have to disassemble the plug to get it out without cutting anything.

    But, it sounds like you're talking about the screw that holds the mirror body to the stanchion. That you'll have to find a way to tighten, or else finagle the old one out and replace it with a nice new stainless screw with antiseize.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

    Comment


      #3
      yep that's what I mean, the body of the mirror can rotate. is it just held on there (to the stanchion) with the one screw?
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        I have some pics of the mirror removed in my RR thread. Maybe there is something that can help you?
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          Thanks Dave, I will look!
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            Good luck! A couple of the ones I've messed with, I ended up drilling the head off the old screw and removing the rest with Vise Grips (and preferably some penetrant) because the head was mangled and the threads were thoroughly seized in place.
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #7
              the head of the screw is fine so it's possible i just wasn't giving it enough force...we shall see very soon haha
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Just be sure to wrap it in rags to protect the paint whilst applying the PB Blaster!
                2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ford used locktite or something on these fucking mirror screws. They do not come off without a fight. You'd want a very good screwdriver, and forward force on the tip when turning the screwdriver so it won't strip out the screw. Be sure to support the mirror, or you might just break it off the door.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                    I can get you some pics of a mirror I dissected, if you like.
                    Now appears to be irrelevant to this thread, but here are the pics I've taken so far of my electric mirror guts, FWIW.
                    Attached Files
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment

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