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Sequential (Chase) taillight thread of injustice.... (a tutorial)

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    #16
    Alright guys I am done... I will post as much as I can, but I have to leave in 15 minutes for a bit so the rest will come after that......

    Ok so I will start where I left off, with the new sockets. I ordered my sockets in the link above. They are different in the fact that they use a round base bulb and not a wedge base... HOWEVER this is fine as they lock in the same way as the factory ones, so the dremel work is fine and can be used. You will want some #2057 double filament bulbs for these.

    Ok now I am going to post pics of the finished wiring, and then explain step by step what you must do to get it like that, so don't freak out when you see the wiring all spliced in.. ok?

    Here is a picture of each side....

    Drivers side all wired-


    Passenger side all wired-


    I apologize for my sub woofer being in the way... but you can still see the wires.

    Step one is to remove the inner sockets on each tail light. (remember these are the innermost under the red lense, don't cut the innermost as these are the reverse lights and are under a clear lense. You technically want the second socket (only gray one) from the license plate.

    This The gray guy in this photo...


    Alright... snip snip with the brown and black wire on these. Now it is time to crimp in the new sockets. Just use crimps for 14-18 gauge wire, the kit comes with wire nuts, but I hate those as they are messy. Yes you can solder and heat shrink, and that would be the best way, but the crimps work fine.

    to be continued....
    "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
    1985 GMC 1500

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      #17
      Ok... so the new plugs will now need to be wired to the brown and black wires that the gray plug used to be in... The new plugs come with a green, brown, and black wire. The brown is a flasher, the green is a power, and the black is a ground.. don't ask me why they switched the brown and green on these sockets, but I found out the hard way.
      Anyway you want to connect the green wire from the new socket to the brown wire in the harness. Then you want to connect the black wire from the socket to the black wire in the harness.

      Any questions so far? I hope I am being clear enough.


      Ok now the new socket is wired in and located in the inner position. You now want to take the new socket out, and switch it with the middle position socket (factory blinker socket). Now the new socket should be in the middle, and the middle socket should be on the inside. the outer socket stays where it is.

      UNPLUG THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS... sorry it goes without saying every time you do electrical work... I know there shouldn'tbe power running to these wires when the car is off, but you never know. I prefer to be safe.

      Sorry for the tangent.

      Now we have the sockets in the right place. The new one in the middle will still have a brown wire coming out of it that is not connected to anything, that is alright... it will in due time.

      Now take a look at these flasher units...


      each one has 4 wires coming from it... A red, A blue, A white, and a brown.

      there are two pictured above.

      You need to splice one in on each side.

      Here is how you want to splice them in... so pay attention I am going to try and make this as painless as possible.

      The RED Flasher module wire gets spliced into the flasher wire... there are 2 flasher wires on each side.. on the drivers side they are green and orange and white... and on the passenger side they are black and orange. (they are the only striped wires)

      IT DOES NOT MATTER which flasher wire you splice into so long as the red wire on the flasher module is spliced into one.

      Now the Black wire splices into a black wire from the harness.. again there are about 4 of these and they are all grounds so it does not matter which one you choose. I chose the one closest to the flasher wire I spliced because it was neater.

      The white wire gets crimp connected to the brown wire that is hanging from the middle (former inner) socket.

      The blue wire is a bit trickier (ok not really there is just an extra step). You must cut Yes CUT... (this should be the only wire you have to cut after you have added the new sockets.) the flasher wire going to the OUTER light. Cut it back from the socket about 2 inches to give room to strip it. You must crimp connect (or solder or wire nut, whatever) the blue wire to the flasher wire that is coming off the socket. The flasher wire that is on the harness side gets electrical taped off and left all by itself, again connect the flasher wire FROM THE SOCKET to the BLUE wire FROM THE FLASHER MODULE.

      And that is it... same for each side, the only change is that the color of the flasher wire on either side will be different. (I covered this above)

      No need for electronic flashers... and no heat sinks/resistors.

      enjoy....
      "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
      1985 GMC 1500

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        #18
        way fucking cool. you should do just the turn signals too.

        1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
        -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
        1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

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          #19
          Originally posted by MattsGrandMarquis View Post
          way fucking cool. you should do just the turn signals too.
          Yeah, they look the same. With this kit though (I think this is sweet) When you hit the brakes the lights come on one at a time from the inside, then stay lit.
          "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
          1985 GMC 1500

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            #20
            fucking cool. now i just need the money. Fuck i hate being broke.

            1982 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Bill Blass Designer Series 2-Door(Larisa)
            -Mods: HO Roller 302, GT40P Heads, Explorer Intakes, HO ECM(D9S), Autodimming w/compass and outside temp rearview mirror, Daniel Stern Lighting Mod, Dual Exhaust, 90's GM C/K Series Retractable Hood Light, Red Digital Dash Display, 92-94 White Leather Town Car Signature Cupholder Armrests, HPP Wheels, Police PS Cooler, Police Trans Cooler. More to come!!!!
            1998 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0 AWD(Fiona)-Mods: Lincoln Navigator THX Audio System, Ford Explorer Sport Instrument Cluster.

            Comment

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