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    Only charging at 11.82

    1988 GM ... I recently removed the dash from the car to work on the heater core plenum. Full details of what was done in the first post here.

    After re-installing the dash, all three of my aftermarket gauges (oil/temp/volt) failed to work unless I wiggled wires around. I have them tapped into the yellow Accessory Power wire that runs into the factory stereo plug. After some messing around, oil and temp quit working all together.

    Volt gauge only works with the wiring held a certain way, but shows a low charge of 11.82 with [Key ON] and [Key ON Engine Running]. Voltage shows 12.08 with [Key OFF]. Checked voltage at the battery and the numbers are the same for both situations.

    Everything was operating properly before dis-assembly. I was wrestling the heater core plenum pretty hard, but I can't find any pinched wires. Anyone have any idea of where to start checking?

    Would the voltage numbers indicate that something that runs with [Key ON] is shorting out, since [Key OFF] is at normal voltage?

    Btw, all interior lights were removed, so there's no electrical drain there. Car has a 3G alt.
    Last edited by monterey1962; 06-01-2010, 11:04 PM.

    #2
    might have pulled the wires a bit much and stressed the connections. How did you tap in? The taps may be pulling apart. The spade connectors may also be stressed and/or pulling the wire out of them. check the wire ends to see if they are still making good connections. You may also have a loose/resistive ground.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      So the system voltage is the same with the engine on or off? That sounds like a dang good sign of the alternator not charging .....

      Sounds normal to me for the system voltage be slightly lower with the key on and engine off than with everything off .....
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

      Comment


        #4
        Is the instrument cluster installed? They won't charge without the cluster in place to complete the idiot light circuit. Does the idiot light come on? If thats not working, the alt won't switch on either.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          Is the instrument cluster installed? They won't charge without the cluster in place to complete the idiot light circuit. Does the idiot light come on? If thats not working, the alt won't switch on either.
          Now there's something I didn't know.

          Cluster is removed since I'm doing up a "new" one.

          Comment


            #6
            You are just running off of battery power at that point.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
              You are just running off of battery power at that point.
              +1...the light completes the circuit somehow
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Once you get the instrument cluster hooked up, put a voltmeter directly on the battery with the engine off and then the engine running to confirm what your dash voltmeter is seeing.
                Originally posted by gadget73
                There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  Is the instrument cluster installed? They won't charge without the cluster in place to complete the idiot light circuit. Does the idiot light come on? If thats not working, the alt won't switch on either.
                  I learned this the hard way lol
                  Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                  New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Dash is assembled and gauge cluster is in. Charging properly, now.

                    New problem ... When turning the headlight switch to dim the dash lights, they go from bright, to off, to flicker as I turn the knob. Going to start checking wires tomorrow.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Headlight switch has a dead dimmer segment. You might get it to work with some contact cleaner on the rheostat section but if not, the switch needs replacing.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I forgot to mention ... when I hit the door lock switch with the lights off, the LED's in my doors give a slight flicker. I'm assuming I have a short somewhere.

                        What do you mean by "dead dimmer segment"?
                        Last edited by monterey1962; 06-13-2010, 02:09 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          the part of the headlight switch that does dash illumination dimming. Looking at the switch, its the round bit closest to the knob, looks like a spring wound on a ceramic form.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by hemihotrod402 View Post
                            I learned this the hard way lol
                            Me too. Idiotic piece of design genius, that. Completing the circuit with a spare piece of wire is sufficient to do the trick.
                            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by monterey1962 View Post
                              I forgot to mention ... when I hit the door lock switch with the lights off, the LED's in my doors give a slight flicker. I'm assuming I have a short somewhere.
                              Mine do that too. I think it's some feedback that go through the interior light circuit. I noticed that the incandecent bulbs don't flicker, I'm guessing because they have a higher resistance.

                              Comment

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