Removing Headlight Switch Knob?

[pantera77]

I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the actual knob off the headlight switch on my 87. I know on my 91, it just has the pressure clip type thing on the backside, but I know there's not one on this thing. I can't get the speedo trim off to get to the actual switch until the knobs off, but I can't figure out how to get the knob off.

So what am I missing?

[Grand_Marquis_LSS]

There is a little buttion on the back side of the switch. You have to cram your arm up behind the dash and feel around for it, then you press it and pull the knob out

[91grandmarquis]

+1 little button, lay on your back and you can see it on the box the switch goes into.

[pantera77]

Ya, I figured it out after looking at the new switch. What a lovely place for that little button!

And best of all, even with a new switch my headlights still don't work!

[85crownHPP]

how did the connector look?

[87gtVIC]

Re-wire the headlights directly from the headlight switch with relays added.

This must be a frustrating problem....Check to see if the low beams have three wires on the headlights and check to see if the high beams have two. Then check the big ass square shaped plug near the relays and washer/coolant container to see if you see the red/black and green/black wires have continuity all the way through...then check the continuity to the headlight switch. Gotta find where the problem is. Definitely sucks ass.

[pantera77]

how did the connector look?

The headlight switch connector looked great.

Re-wire the headlights directly from the headlight switch with relays added.

This must be a frustrating problem....Check to see if the low beams have three wires on the headlights and check to see if the high beams have two. Then check the big ass square shaped plug near the relays and washer/coolant container to see if you see the red/black and green/black wires have continuity all the way through...then check the continuity to the headlight switch. Gotta find where the problem is. Definitely sucks ass.

I did the relay upgrade last week in hopes it would save my flickering / turn on only when they want low-beam issues. It worked for a few days, but I guess the damage was already done....

Headlight switch connector looks fine....



Let's take a peak at the multi-function swi... OH DEAR GOD





Guess I found the problem.....

[87gtVIC]

yikes! Ahh the great secrets of used cars.

[GoodSamaritan]

I've seen that before...

What I usually do if I can't find the right connector, is cut apart the old one, where it melted, and inspect the actual metal connectors. If they are salvageable, I just slip some heat shrink over them and plug everything back together. If they are too loose, just squash them a bit with some pliers first, so that they stay on good and tight.

If the metal connectors are shot, crimp new ones on the existing wires, cut back to good wire/spliced if those are damaged. But remove the plastic insulation from the crimp terminals first, so you can solder them on for a better connection.

The good news is, you can take that new light switch back and get your $$$ back if you don't mention that you already had it plugged in. With the relay mod, your original light switch should outlast the rest of the car.

[87gtVIC]

So can one elaborate as to why the multifunction connectors looks like hell and not the headlight switch?

[sly]

multifunction switches the lows/highs and full current there too. Weakest link generally nukes first. this time... it was the weakest link.

[91waggin]

It probably didn't have as solid of a metal-to-metal connection as the headlight switch did, causing more resistance and heat.

[87gtVIC]

damn that is some scary shit. I know a few days after my dad sold his old 83 crown vic it set fire.

So you found that removing the fuse panel provided good access to the headlight switch?

[pantera77]

damn that is some scary shit. I know a few days after my dad sold his old 83 crown vic it set fire.

So you found that removing the fuse panel provided good access to the headlight switch?

Depends on your definition of good access. If jamming your arm into sharp bits of metal and plastic and hopelessly feeling around for the button is good access, then yes. It actually wasn't the most terrible thing to be honest.

I fixed it like GoodSamaritan suggested. The actual terminal and insulation on the wires were fine, along with the actual multi function switch, so I just put a layer of heat-shrink on the one loose wire, cut the burned part of the connector off, and wrapped it all in tape for extra protection. And now all it has to do is turn a relay on and off so I'm not worried.

Why did it go bad there and not the headlight switch? Must of been a worse connection there.

I'm positive now that Ford wanted the least possible voltage reaching the headlights.

Power goes the the headlight switch from the big chunky Black/ Orange stripe wire. From there power goes to the multifunction switch through a dinky Red/ Yellow stripe wire. From there exits our familiar Red/ Black stripe wire for low beams, and Light Green/ Black stripe high beam wire which have to run all the way to the drivers side headlights, then to the passenger side headlights.

Luckily my handy dandy 1987 Ford/Mercury Grand Marquis Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual made it fairly easy to trace.