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If I were you I'd buy the highest wattage soldering iron available. I once made the mistake of replacing my good iron with a cheap low wattage one and it struggled to flow solder on any wire bigger than 12 gauge. Now you may not ever be working with wires bigger than that but, a good quality soldering iron will last 20+ years and you'll be good to go with any kind of soldering job you may decide to undertake.
just my 2 cents.
Danny
2002 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 4.6L V8, 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 5.0L V8, 1979 Lincoln Mark V 6.6L V8, 1977 Lincoln Continental 7.5L V8, 1999 Chevrolet Suburban LT 5.7L V8
It depends what you're doing what wattage you want. I had a 40w Weller that worked very well on larger wire, but it was so hot it cooked the tips away constantly just from being plugged in. The 25 Weller I had was great but it wouldn't do over about a 14 ga wire. 100w guns do fat wire, but I find them incredibly cumbersome and I've never gotten nice clean results when splicing wires with them. Radio Shack irons aren't worth a flying shit, so don't bother with them. Their 40w iron works about as well as a decent 25w iron.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
temp controlled weller is awesome (but kinda spensive - ~$180). If you plan on soldering small stuff and large stuff... get a cheap iron with replaceable tips (25-35 watt) for the small stuff and a gun or hot iron (big fat soldering iron) for the big stuff. I have an old 13amp hotplate controller (electric stove burner control in a box w/3-prong outlet) to control my 35W iron. I've done up to 14 gauge wire with that (anything bigger takes forever and tends to get cold joints - not a good thing). I will be getting a weller one of these days with the digital temp control because I do some wicked small stuff from time to time (trace repair and such) just because I can. I do want to get a butane torch type soldering iron or big fat iron eventually. I would like to fix up the lug I used for my sub amp... not sure if it will really last. 2 10 gauge wires into a 4 gauge lug. The 35W iron got it about half full of solder before it weenied out.
+1 against radio snack irons. the 25W one I had never could do anything right other than 18 gauge or smaller wire joints/tinning.
I just want it to make more permanent connections than a butt splice when I'm doing stuff like lights, audio, will likely replace the green wire connection to my alternator with a soldered one.
sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
I actually have the soldering station from Harbor Frieght and its entirely decent. Not a Weller, but it was also $40 on sale. Needs a new tip now, but I think it takes Weller tips.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
I use a Weller 25, used to have a thirty but it died long ago. The 25 works great just for general soldering, the bigger stuff (desoldering heatsinks and things from PCB's) becomes time consuming though. I like the Wellers mostly because the tip screws in instead of a straight shaft with a set screw on the side of the iron. Also easy to make new tips using a bolt from the hardware store with the head lopped off and ground into a point lol
yeah, all this RoHS crap. I really need to buy a case of the stuff. The lead free solder doesn't mix all that great with old lead solder, which is 95% of what I deal with.
Soldering tips are usually plated copper, not steel.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
I once welded an exhaust muffler with a steel coat hanger. Still holding up like a champ! lol
2002 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 4.6L V8, 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 5.0L V8, 1979 Lincoln Mark V 6.6L V8, 1977 Lincoln Continental 7.5L V8, 1999 Chevrolet Suburban LT 5.7L V8
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