i'm doing allot of cleaning up under the hood with all the wiring and i'm just wondering if I can cut out the harness clips and just wire the pairs of wires together to get rid of all those bulky clips... Obviosly if thiers more wires comming out or in, or diff colours i will leave the harnes but most are matching pairs all comming in and out.
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Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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As long as what you will be connecting does not need to come out often then go right ahead. Just be aware that inside the connectors may be a lot of corrosion. Best to cut the crap out and then add new wire to reattach everything. Soldering everything together would be ideal just to keep resistance values down. Solder does not stick to dirty corroded wires so definitely snip off dirty ends if you plan to solder.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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kind of off topic, but do I by chance smell a future wire tuck?
I hope so, that's in my gameplan as well (although I'm going to build up an engine first)Parts Car (Scrapped
) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For SaleComment
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ok its all going pretty good and the task of cleaning up and hiding the wiring under the hood is going good, but man is it ever a mess of wires under their to sort out. I have also wired in the relay mods for my lows and highs and I have a true HID kit to put in when i can get the Hela housings in 2 weeks hopefully if they get some stock goin again.Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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lets see some pics! this is really interesting.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)Comment
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I command you to update your Readers Ride page. OR ELSE.....
~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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I really wouldn't hack up those harnesses. If you don't take special care to have your connections good, you'll have all sorts of nightmare problems with it. The connectors are ugly, but they allow the harness to be swapped in sections, which is very nice sometimes.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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alright I got 1 pic for ya's haha and it's not pretty but i'm wondering if you guys know what the hell is with having 4 wires go in and only 1 come out. the wire colour codes match up for the only wire comming out and the wire going in lined up with it, but i don't know if i can snip and cap the other bastards off or not... can a harness link connections together inside?...or are they always kept separated.
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all my connections are done with propane torch (not the joke electric irons) good acid flux and solder with shrink tube to seal them well and its all re-loomed up tight. I've got the drivers half of the engine bay all done accept this harness, and the passenger side looks like a piece of cake and I will get some pics up of it and all the stuff i've done since I last updated my readers ride a long time ago.
I also have the constant daytime running lights since it's canadian, but I just wired in a toggle switch in to shut off the signal to my relay if I wish, so I can now shut all of the lights off or run just the front corner ambers and night lights with no headlights which is kinda cool.Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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never ever use acid flux on electrical connections. it eats the wire away and you'll be left with green powder in about a year. Acid core solder is used to solder steel, not copper. You need rosin core solder for doing copper wire. Propane torch is also a bad idea because it melts the insulation.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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sorry about that... I did use rosin core solder actually, I just soldered some steel gun parts with acid flux and silver alloy solder and got em mixed up.Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4
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why not just extend the wires so the plug ins can be moved out of sight but you will still have the convinience of a plug in. this is what im doing on the honda
'90 LX 5.0 mustang
Big plansComment
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